The factory crossmember will not be holding up the transmission any more, but I want it in there to tie the frame rails together. I had to notch it to clear the transmission pan. Then I boxed it back in with 1/4” steel. (The crossmember is 3/16)
I painted the back side on Saturday, and let it dry overnight. I painted the top side on Sunday morning. Finished about 10:00 am. This stuck takes forever to dry, so after letting it flow out in the shop for a couple of hours, I put it out in the sun. It may not make any difference, but it can’t hurt.
Working on the floorboards now. Not finding much more than surface rust and pitting. I found a 1953 nickel under the panel on the right side of this photo.
After test fitting the modified oil pan, I have it out, yet again. Its’s painted now and ready to go back on the engine for (hopefully) the last time... baby steps.
Bearings packed. Steering arm on, and safety wired. Dust shields and caliper installed. Will get passenger side done tomorrow. I’m so glad I took photos before I took it apart.
Right side done. Shocks installed. Sway bar end links connected. I have one tie rod that is bent, due to a tow truck driver who wasn’t paying attention (or didn’t care). I’m going to try and fix that tomorrow.
Nice job on the jag IFS, I use them in everything. So far I have put them in multiple pickups, 41 cadillac, 55 buick, and will be putting one in my 51 Hudson. Here the the one I did on the current 55 Buick build, the jag setup rides, steers, and brakes excellent. Looking forward to the rest of your build. Also what vehicle was the 8.8 you used out of?
Aren't we going to run out of jag front suspensions on of these days? They didn't really make that many jaguars.
I use series 3 jaguar IFS (79-87 XJ6, any year XJS ) and they are very common. I buy whole cars for $500 or less regularly, and other than the steering rack the rebuild parts are cheap. If the steering rack leaks they can be pricey to buy but the rebuild kit is under $100.
Quick google check says about 133000 series 3 were built so I doubt we will be running out any time soon.
What is nice about the jag IFS is it is built for a true 4000 pound car which is what the jags weigh, no light weight mustang 2 pieces. Forged control arms, 4 piston disc brakes, quick ratio steering rack. As long as the rebuild parts are available I am good to go.
Nice job on the jag IFS, I use them in everything. So far I have put them in multiple pickups, 41 cadillac, 55 buick, and will be putting one in my 51 Hudson. Here the the one I did on the current 55 Buick build, the jag setup rides, steers, and brakes excellent. Looking forward to the rest of your build. Also what vehicle was the 8.8 you used out of?
The 8.8 came out of a 99 Explorer. They have a long tube/axle on one side and short tube/axle on the other. When you shorten the long tube to match the short one it"s within a quarter inch of the width of the Hudson rear, and uses off the shelf axles. I think all 99 Explorers came with disc brakes, limited slip diffs, and big 31 spline axles (mine did). This one has 3.55:1 gears, and there are LOTS of ratios available.
Aren't we going to run out of jag front suspensions on of these days? They didn't really make that many jaguars.
I use series 3 jaguar IFS (79-87 XJ6, any year XJS ) and they are very common. I buy whole cars for $500 or less regularly, and other than the steering rack the rebuild parts are cheap. If the steering rack leaks they can be pricey to buy but the rebuild kit is under $100.
Quick google check says about 133000 series 3 were built so I doubt we will be running out any time soon.
What is nice about the jag IFS is it is built for a true 4000 pound car which is what the jags weigh, no light weight mustang 2 pieces. Forged control arms, 4 piston disc brakes, quick ratio steering rack. As long as the rebuild parts are available I am good to go.
Sorry for the hijack, back to the build!
My donor car was a 78 XJS. I took the entire front end apart, and cleaned and pianted it all, and lubed it, and put it back together. All the control arm bushings, the lower arm pivot, and ball joints were new. I paid $300 for the car, delivered to my house. I was going to narrow the Jag rear, and use it too, but that would have cost about $600 just to narrow it, and I found the 8.8 Ford rear already done for $400. The Jeep guys use the 8.8's by narrowing them liked I talked about above. All I have to do to the one I have, is set the pinion angle and weld on the perches.
Getting a little time in today out in the shop, since it has cooled off some. I worked on mocking up the radiator. I see that I will need to remove the engine oil heat exchanger (cooler), because it won’t allow me to connect the lower radiator hose. I might modify the core support as well, to let me move the radiator forward an inch. Progress is slow, but going forward. I gotta get this 57 Chevy pickup done, so I can focus on my own car.
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I paid $300 for the car, delivered to my house. I was going to narrow the Jag rear, and use it too, but that would have cost about $600 just to narrow it, and I found the 8.8 Ford rear already done for $400. The Jeep guys use the 8.8's by narrowing them liked I talked about above. All I have to do to the one I have, is set the pinion angle and weld on the perches.