Engine build

I put a post on here a couple of months ago about building a Hudson engine. Well I am now ordering parts. I am doing a full rebuild kit from dale cooper with factory pistons, isky racing cam, twin h setup, roller timing gears, 7x valves, half inch head bolts, Clifford headers. I am looking to build a hopped up street engine. I am looking for an engine builder near Roanoke va that would be experienced in relieving block and doing work the head on it. I am also question the ignition side can I still use the factory ignition? Thanks


  • Ol racerOl racer Posts: 2,577Senior Contributor
    Run 12V then use a Pertronix Distributor or Crane XR700 Point Eliminator Kit in stock dist. Some use HEI from Chevy 6 cyl. I believe Dan Fullerton at the Twin H Garage in Cummins Ga sells those converted for Hornet.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              
  • 49hudsonrod49hudsonrod Posts: 8Member
    Ol racer said:
    Run 12V then use a Pertronix Distributor or Crane XR700 Point Eliminator Kit in stock dist. Some use HEI from Chevy 6 cyl. I believe Dan Fullerton at the Twin H Garage in Cummins Ga sells those converted for Hornet.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              
    I want the car to stay 6 volt, and stay and look mostly original. 
  • Jay_GJay_G Posts: 400Expert Adviser
    I have been down the road you are describing with keeping 6 volt......forget it.  I built my engine and the 6 volt starter would not start the engine when hot.  So with the higher compression of a fresh rebuilt with speed parts the 6v starter would just turn the engine over very slowly.  If it did not start within the first 5 revolutions forget it until you topped up the battery.  Yes this was a freshly rebuilt 6v starter and as large a 6v battery that I could get.  Now when it was hot, you got 1 or 2 turns of the engine......assuming it would turnover at all and it was very slowly.  Needless to say I drove the car very little because the starting was so unreliable. 

    Finally converted it to a 12v.  Smartest thing I ever did.  Now I can start and drive the car reliability.

    As for the distributer I am running pertronix.  They have 6v units and 12v units that will work.  In fact I had them retrofit a 12v unit into an old Mallory distributer.

  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 976Senior Contributor
    If your doing all the “performance” things to the old engine then you certainly don’t want to stay with the 6 volt.  1) where you are you going to get a jump for the 6 volt battery if it’s needed?  2) if you want a tach you’ll never get it with a 6volt system.  For what it’s worth, when I look at cars to buy having a 6 volt system is a major drawback.  Go 12 volt & you’ll never look back!
  • cheyenne7271cheyenne7271 Posts: 361Member
    I just about daily drive my 50 Super 6 that had about a 30-35 year slumber in a building. Just like anything else, if it’s corroded it won’t work right, doesn’t matter if it’s 6 or 12v. Aside from freshening a few things it’s all original 6v and bone stock. Cranks as it should. And you can get a jump from a 12 car if you need it. It’s not ideal but it can be done. 
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 976Senior Contributor
    I too have 6 volt old Hudson’s that start right away but I also have a horse & a buggy that starts every time too!   There are far too many drawbacks to 6 volt to continue to cling to the outdated & obsolete especially if you upgrade engine components.  There is a reason automakers dropped 6 volt systems & never looked back. 
  • terraplane8terraplane8 Posts: 568Senior Contributor
    I don't have a problem with 6 volts, but then again I have a good starter motor and really thick battery cables. It can crank fine for quite a while even if been sitting for ages, more than long enough to fill the fuel bowl and get it going.
  • terraplane8terraplane8 Posts: 568Senior Contributor

  • terraplane8terraplane8 Posts: 568Senior Contributor

  • 7XPacemaker7XPacemaker Posts: 499Senior Contributor
    Alright, here it goes- If you plan on running a high compression in your engine, forget about 6 volts. Jay G is accurate with his statement. That was the reason that I put a 12 volt system in the Pacemaker. That is also part of the reason that 6 volt went away in the first place. 12 volt bulbs and headlights are brighter and easier to get than their standard 6 volt counterparts. Accessories like radios, cell phone chargers, electric fuel pumps and such are easier to use and access parts for. Remember, 1/2 the voltage, twice the amperage. Positive grounds are very sensitive compared to negative ground systems. It is ultimately your car and your decision to make on what you elect to do with it. Everyone has their own opinion and their own cars to test out their thoughts on!
    Good luck!
  • 50C8DAN50C8DAN Posts: 2,371Senior Contributor
    I kept my 50C8 6V pos ground as it works fine and I have no reason to change it.  I do not run any modern acc. in it and so far it has performed stellar as a 6V auto.  However, my '54HC is 12V neg. ground and I would have to be nuts to change it back to 6V, as I would lose my AC, radio, aux fan, etc.  As noted there is a reason that the industry went to 12V neg ground in about '55.  As also noted, 6V will make it very difficult to start anything high compression, as it just does not have the umph to make it happen.
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