1955 308 engine questions

I have been told by Cole at Wildrick, that I have a crate 308, stamp number F14837.

I've been looking at 7X camshafts on the form from 2015and 2015 as well at 21st Century Hudson.

Today, I looked at my camshaft, for measurements and cast number.My cam number is309742. Lobe height is 1.557 lobe diameter is 1.199 by digital calipers. I again looked online and the form from 2014 and 2015. By my cam number, I have a factory 7X camshaft with hydraulic lifters. I checked the oil pump drive gear, it appears to be a steel gear. When i rebuild my engine, I plan to install a bronze gear and a true double roller timing chain.

My head that I have for this engine is a 308. Larry at Clifford Performance told me how to check for thickness on my head. My head is just shy of 2 inches thick. Larry told my that my head is completely stock thickness. He suggested that I shave my head .060 for better compression

I've built engines as a professional mechanic for 23 years before I retired from the trade 15 years ago. Everything that I've seen of this engine, says that it was a low mileage engine before it was parked. I purchased this engine from Ron Falk. I tore the engine down, including removing the crank, to forcefully remove the rust frozen engines. This destroyed the pistons but no damage to the rods. There are no cracks anywhere on the block, including between the valve seats.

My question is simple, should I use the 2 inch intake valves and 1.687 exhaust valves? If I use these larger valves, will I also need to enlarge the  air intake chambers for better air flow? I know the valve seats will need to be enlarged for the larger valves. At this time my engine has 1.847 intake valves and 1.570 exhaust valves. Years of rust have eaten these valve stems up badly. This includes the valve guides.

Any and all input will be helpful will be greatly appreciated, being that this is my first Flathead engine to work on.

Thanks Wookie




 

Comments

  • 7XPacemaker7XPacemaker Posts: 411Senior Contributor
    edited October 10
    I am not a big fan of the hydraulic lifters in the Hornet engines. I would go with solids if I had it apart, but that is just my opinion! 
  • 54coupe54coupe Posts: 471Member
    I would only mill the head enough to be sure it is flat and true. My opinion on the valves is that to get the full benefit of going with larger valves, you must open up the block between the valves and the cylinders. I do this on any engine I build for my own use.
  • blondwookieblondwookie Posts: 108Member
    7XPacemaker

    would i have to have my cam resurfaced for mechanical adjustable lifters?
  • blondwookieblondwookie Posts: 108Member
    54Coupe

    would you be able to show me exactly how to open up the combustion chambers including porting?

  • 54coupe54coupe Posts: 471Member
    Is your email address correct in your profile? I will see if I can get some photos together to send to you.
  • blondwookieblondwookie Posts: 108Member
    Ya it is.

  • 7XPacemaker7XPacemaker Posts: 411Senior Contributor
    They used to Parkerize the cam to harden it up for solid lifters.
  • Hudnut54Hudnut54 Posts: 3Member
    I would look for a 262 head to get higher compression instead of using a good stock compression 308 head 
  • KdancyKdancy Posts: 2,457Senior Contributor
    Agree with hudnut. Get a good "inspec" 262 head if you are determined to raise compression.
    The Hudson out of spec head thickness is 1.94". I have personally never measured a 308 that measured a full 2", and that includes a 308 NOS head. It miked out at 1.985.

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