Head bolts

Where is the best place to get new Head bolts for my 308? I have half inch head bolts in my 55 308


  • GlowplugGlowplug Posts: 1,962Expert Adviser
    Try Dale Cooper /513-821-6200/
  • EngineerLecompteEngineerLecompte Posts: 45Member
    There's really nothing special about them, as near as I can tell. Last time I had the head off my 51 I used Grade 8s from a reputable fastener house. Black oxide finish so it wouldn't look weird.

    I did use structural washers under the bolts-grade F496-iff'n you want to be technical and all. Any good fastener shop should have them, even Fastenal, although you may have to repeat yourself many, many times.
  • ski4life65ski4life65 Posts: 1,012Expert Adviser
    1/2 inch are easy to find. 7/16, not so much. I bought mine at Fastenal, but Lowes had them too, but way more expensive.
  • blondwookieblondwookie Posts: 114Member
    Thanks for the input on the head bolts and washers

  • KdancyKdancy Posts: 2,439Senior Contributor
  • 50C8DAN50C8DAN Posts: 1,918Senior Contributor
    I wanted flanged head bolts and got mine from this place: https://www.flangebolts.com

  • KdancyKdancy Posts: 2,439Senior Contributor
    It would seem to me that the fixed flange would effect the torque reading?
  • 50C8DAN50C8DAN Posts: 1,918Senior Contributor
    Not sure but I have had no problems yet.  Yes, there are some differences but I tend to like flanged bolts for several reasons.  Here is an article on this subject: http://www.fbabolt.com.au/flange-bolt-tech.html
  • blondwookieblondwookie Posts: 114Member
    Chevy uses the flange bolt and has for years. I don't see an issue with torquing at all

  • JasonNCJasonNC Posts: 906Expert Adviser
    I thought the original engine had the flanged bolts.  At least that's what was in my 48 when I bought it. 

  • blondwookieblondwookie Posts: 114Member
    I'm not sure. the few engine head bolts i got were just head bolts, like what is in most ford engines

  • blondwookieblondwookie Posts: 114Member
    there could also be different original head bolts used over the years.
  • blondwookieblondwookie Posts: 114Member
    On YouTube, I saw 7 different engines with 7 different kinds of head bolts used including studs, washers and stover nuts
  • 50C8DAN50C8DAN Posts: 1,918Senior Contributor
    My 50C8 has studs
  • blondwookieblondwookie Posts: 114Member
    does your head bolt studs, have threads at both ends with a solid shoulder in the middle?
  • 50C8DAN50C8DAN Posts: 1,918Senior Contributor
    Yes.  I believe all of the 8s were made that way and perhaps the 212s 6s too, but I do not have one to go look at.
  • blondwookieblondwookie Posts: 114Member
    i have a local bolt shop in Casper. I'll see what they have in half inch studs
  • KdancyKdancy Posts: 2,439Senior Contributor
    Chevy uses the flange bolt and has for years. I don't see an issue with torquing at all

      I'm sure that GM took the flanged bolt design into consideration when coming up with the torque specs. Not saying its good or bad, but turning a fixed flange against a surface has got to create more friction then turning a bolt head against a loose washer.
    I have an original  262 and a 232 on stands, both have bolts with washers.

  • KdancyKdancy Posts: 2,439Senior Contributor
    Interesting article on the two types-
    The use of hardened washers is necassary when going the bolt and washer route, ive always used them
    As has been explained, there are several reasons as to why flanged nuts and bolts are preferred over standard hexagon fasteners used with washers. The sensible approach is to replace like fasteners with like fasteners; unless you are feeling lucky.

  • KdancyKdancy Posts: 2,439Senior Contributor
    Note back to me from the Bolt Science editor-

    Hi Kerry,

     If the friction is the same in both situations, the flange headed fastener would require a higher torque to achieve the same preload. This is due to the effective friction diameter of the head increasing when a flange headed fastener is used.

     I hope that this helps

    Kind regards 

    Bill Eccles PhD

    Bolt Science    www.boltscience.com

    Tel. +441257 411503      Fax. +44 1257 411650

  • railknightrailknight Posts: 367Expert Adviser
    I replaced the head gasket on my '53 Super Wasp 262 engine last year (Sept. 2019) using new head bolts purchased from Dale Cooper.  The bolts actually cost a little less than similar bolts at the local ACE Hardware store.  
  • KdancyKdancy Posts: 2,439Senior Contributor
    edited April 23
    How much difference I asked him--

    Depends upon the specifics; approximately in the order of 10% typically.

     (I would like to have edited this and put all in one response, but can no longer do that for some reason)

  • 35 Terraplane35 Terraplane Posts: 255Senior Contributor
    One other thing to consider.  Hex cap screws feature a washer face under the head and a chamfered point.  This aids in achieving correct torque value.  Also a slight amount of lubricant on the threads and washer faces aids in friction reduction.  As Kerry said, the use of hardened washers is the way to go.  Common hex bolts not have these features.  It's a good thing to look for ASME grade 8 hex cap screws and A325 hardened washers.
  • m.patterson56m.patterson56 Posts: 29Member
    Has anyone considered studs with a course thread into the block and a fine thread with a hardened washer and a nut on the outside? Once the course thread is seated in the block, wouldn't the fine thread give more pressure for torque value?
  • 50C8DAN50C8DAN Posts: 1,918Senior Contributor
    edited May 18
    I believe that in my old Clifford catalog he listed something similar for 308s as a stud kit.  I also think that the Nascar guys used to run studs.  Also, I could be wrong but I thought I read where Hudson used Grade 5 bolts to get more stretch during torque down?
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