46 Ignition switch without key

Hey all, I've got an ignition switch without a key and I had another ignition switch with the lock broken apart inside.  I do have a new lock cylinder with a key so I thought I could just swap the cylinder out.

I managed to get the bits of the old broken lock out of one of them, but when I insert the new lock cylinder, it seems to not sit all the way in even when lined up with the openings at the end of the switch cylinder. Once it is in, the retainer locks and you cannot pull the cylinder back out, but it just spins freely in either direction. I can take the new cylinder out no problem using a pin as described in the mech procedures guide.

I have a few questions someone might be able to help me out with.

1. Am I missing something with inserting the new lock cylinder that is causing it to not sit properly even though the retainer catches?
2. Is there an easier way to get the old cylinder out of the other ignition switch I have without damaging the switch? I'm a bit nervous to start drilling and whacking it, as I do not want to break the bakelite or the switch, so hoping there may be an easier way?
3. Assuming I do need to swap the switch in the ignition out, how would you remove the stakings as described in the manual? And is there a place to get new ones so I could attach the new switch to the cylinder portion?
4. Is there a better approach I should be considering? 

Sorry if these are silly questions, but this is new to me, so any advice is appreciated.



  • LanceLance Posts: 886Member
    Do you have the lock cylinder code numbers on the lock without the key? If so I can cut a key to match that cylinder .  The code is barely visible on the side of the lock cylinder. If I can help let me know. 704 792 911zero
  • longlivelancelonglivelance Posts: 87Member
    Not sure exactly which numbers, but here are some photos, in case they are the right numbers, and to further show my situation.

    1. First, this is the switch from my truck, with no key. The only numbers I see are on the back of the switch, and looks like E7236, seen here ( but that doesn't seem like the one you're talking about):

    2. I cannot get to the actual lock cylinder without the key. According to the manual, you need to turn it to the on position, insert a pin in this retainer hole, push down, and then switch to the off position, and it should slide out. Problem here is, no key, so maybe those numbers above are correct?

    3. I had another switch which looked like someone tried to get out previously. I was able to get the rest of the lock out without causing more damage, but with this one, when I insert the new cylinder, while the retainer seems to lock the cylinder in there, it rotates freely, as if the little foot at the end of the cylinder is not making it into the hole at the bottom. I am assuming from the damage to the interior of where you insert the cylinder. Seen here:

    4. Then lastly I have a entire new lock cylinder, with a key, which if i could get to set in the broken switch, or get the other lock cylinder out, might work.

    Thanks for the information above, and offer to help out, hopefully those are the numbers I need, or these pictures might lead to another idea of getting the one without the key removed from the switch.

  • LanceLance Posts: 886Member
    If you remove the plastic collar from the switch you will pull up slightly on the cylinder without the key and see on the very top of that cylinder are the code numbers such as H xxx THAT is the lock code number . I can supply a key when I have that code.
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