Technical Bulleltin TS 77-9 - Clutch Flushing

hudsontechhudsontech Posts: 4,606Senior Contributor
edited April 2014 in Manuals, etc,.
Another tech bulletin from Art Adams WTN collection.

Alex B


  • FrankvintagefullflowcomFrankvintagefullflowcom Posts: 929Senior Contributor
    Is it just me or does there appear to be some things missing from the procedure running of the engine?
    I have found that 3-M Brake Parts Cleaner and likely many other similar products, do a good job of removing the shellac-like glaze on the inserts with the disc "on the bench". I will eventually try using it on an installed unit to see how it far I don't have one that needs it.
  • oldhudsonsoldhudsons Posts: 2,149Senior Contributor
    I am unable to open Alex' bulletin above nor could I find it at his website.
    What we always used was 50/50 carbon tet & acetone, I still have some of each but understand carbon tet now very difficult to acquire.
    After removing one of the drain plugs would turn flywheel so opening accessible via the hole above the starter. I made from a piece of heater hose a filler tube about 1' long with a funnel in one end & I pared the other down so it would fit into the access hole & not leak ( can of course be used for cleaning the clutch or draining & renewing the fluid; worked great). Would put the car up on jack stands, scoot around underneath on mechanic's "scooter".
  • hudsontechhudsontech Posts: 4,606Senior Contributor
    Pete - go to the library @ - the tech bulletins are filed in the Other H-E-T Literature (at the top of the page).  TS 77-9 is in the Hudson Technical Bulletins, Vol. 1 file.

    Alex B
  • PAULARGETYPEPAULARGETYPE Posts: 1,755Senior Contributor
    All Hudson Owners Using Fluid-Cushioned Clutch
    Proper Clutch Flushing and Lubrication
    Following is the method recommended in the Hudson Service Merchandiser, dated Dec., 1951, for draining and
    cleaning the clutches
    of Hudson cars through 1954, except Jet) in order to remove gum and oxidation deposits which cause clutch
    It is important that this procedure be closely followed and the engine run sufficiently to warm up the clutch parts
    to approximately
    100 degrees before flushing. If the parts area t a low temperature, the solvent will not be effective and, on the
    other hand, if the
    temperature is to high, much of it will vaporize.
    1. Remove the flywheel pan.
    2. Turn flywheel until drain plug is at its lowest position. Remove plug and drain out the old clutch compound.
    3. Turn flywheel until clutch filler hold is opposite timing opening in rear engine plate and with a filler gun,
    inject one pint of suitable cleaning solvent. (NOTE: In light of this directive being written in 1951 carbon
    tetrachloride may no longer be available - a suitable substitute will probably have to found.)
    4. Replace plug and with a stick of proper length or clutch pedal depressor, hold clutch in disengaged position.
    5. Drain clutch again making sure filler opening is at extreme bottom position to remove all solvent. Turn
    flywheel until filler opening is again exposed at the rear engine support plate. Introduce 1/3 pint of new Hudsonite
    compound and replace plug.
    6. Replace flywheel cover.
    Yours very truly,
    A. E. Adams
    Technical Service Editor
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,322Senior Contributor
    There are definitely two steps missing.   After step 4. you need to   turn  the engine several times over a period of a day or two, to allow the mixture to cover all the cork surface.  Then start the engine, remove the stick from the clutch pedal,  and push the pedal in and out several times to  wipe the solvent  from the corks.   Then prop the pedal down again, drain  the clutch and allow time for all solvent to drain out.  Then refill with Hudsonite or DexronIII A.T.F.
  • PAULARGETYPEPAULARGETYPE Posts: 1,755Senior Contributor
  • 35 Terraplane35 Terraplane Posts: 364Senior Contributor
    Could MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) and acetone 50/50 be used as a flushing solvent?
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