head studs

Unknown
Unknown
edited November -1 in HUDSON
would like to use new headstuds for the 37T motor,as i snapped a few getting them out.A friend has suggested using bolts rather than studs and nuts,but if i can source new studs,would rather stay original.Any info?
Les,do you stock them?

Comments

  • Huddy42
    Huddy42 Senior Contributor
    Sorry Skip, don't have them in stock, I would stick to the studs if I were you .

    Les.
  • oldhudsons
    oldhudsons Senior Contributor
    you should be able to go to an automotive supply shop or a machine shop & get new ones.
    When I needed to get some big studs for a Hornet block went to a hot rod supply co.
    Studs the only way to go with a high compression engine like a Hornet, esp. if high compression or milled head, but for a '37 T that wouldn't be necessary.
  • Kdancy
    Kdancy Senior Contributor
    edited August 2011
    ARP is where I found these studs, nuts and washers--
    http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm97/studebaker2/37 Terraplane engine/
    37HudsonTerraplanePUaircleaner002.jpg
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    I couldn't find studs readilly so I used grade 8 bolts on my 47 Truck 212. You'll have to try them and maybe cut a couple of them off to make sure they don't bottom out before they're tight, but they've been running in my daily driver for over 4 years now.

  • oldhudsons
    oldhudsons Senior Contributor
    K - sure a "sano" looking engine!
  • oldhudsons
    oldhudsons Senior Contributor
    advantages of using studs: 1. authentic 2. when need to remove head easier to get nuts off than trying to pull bolts out of block 3. when studs in place automatically aligns head to head gasket, no worries about it shifting out of place, just drop head right down onto gasket 4. it would seem to me you'd get a more accurate reading when using the torque wrench as just turning the nuts on the studs rather than turning the whole length of the bolt into the block.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    After a year or two, have fun trying to remove the head. Use bolts with with threads lubed. Walt.
  • onerare39
    onerare39 Expert Adviser, Member
    walts garage-53 wrote:
    After a year or two, have fun trying to remove the head. Use bolts with with threads lubed. Walt.

    Walt,

    If you lube the threads doesn't that change the torque setting? Also, do you need to use non hardening thread sealer on the bolts since they are going into the water jacket?

    John Forkner
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    I would use studs, as per original. I've never had problems getting a head off, unless using an alloy head. I once had a '36 Graham with an alloy head, and we got it off in four pieces in the finish! But with an iron head and proper length studs you can't go wrong.
    Geoff
  • Terraplane33
    Terraplane33 Expert Adviser
    I would also stay with the studs.
    From a pure mechanical point of view, studs are better fasteners than bolts, by using bolts, there is much more torsion as the effort is applied on top and the tread is down in the bloc.
    Sometimes, it's more convenient to use bolts as studs might make it difficult to remove parts.
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    OK, I haven't seen a good source for a set of studs yet. Seems like a good item for Dale. I haven't been able to remove a set from a splasher yet without breaking several, so there is a market for them.

    If I could find a set easilly I wouldn't monkey with bolts.

    Can anybody help here?
  • schillaz
    schillaz Expert Adviser
    edited August 2011
    I have had good luck using McMaster-carr company for my 53 7x engine studs.



    Here are the ones i ordered:

    Head: part #91563A226

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3164/=dobe3s


    Intake/exhaust: part #91563A130

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3164/=dobezu
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    Good luck trying to get McMaster Carr to send anything outside the U.S. I tried and they point-blank refused.
  • Kdancy
    Kdancy Senior Contributor
    Torque chart --
    http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/A_FastenerTorqueCharts.pdf
    and
    http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_torque_us.shtml

    http://arp-bolts.com/ I called ARP and got the studs, nuts and washers for the 37 engine.
  • Terraplane33
    Terraplane33 Expert Adviser
    ARP are well known for head studs, even here in Europe. Their quality est well above expectations in particular for the needs of an old car with low compression rate !
  • SamJ
    SamJ Senior Contributor
    Many years ago I used to pass Windermere Farms outside of Toronto and see Kentucky Derby winner Northern Dancer grazing in his paddock. He spent summers in Ontario and winters in Kentucky. I always thought, what a great job...you run a couple of miles and you get to retire and be head stud for the rest of your life...:unsure:
  • TwinH
    TwinH Senior Contributor
    I'm not a fan of the interference fit studs referenced to McMaster Carr in this
    application. A class 5 thread fit is not intended for a stud that will be removed
    for service(such as surfacing the deck). stud/thread fit link


    Personally,my 55 308 came to me with studs and a freeze damaged Clifford head.I did
    play hell getting two of the center-row studs out and there was NO way that head was
    coming off in any usable state without removing the studs.Yes,the corrosion between
    head and stud was severe. This is caused by the galvanic reaction between the steel
    stud and aluminum head and probably aggravated by moisture seeping by the threads in
    the deck or just condensation from repeated heating/cooling cycles. After I got the
    freeze damage repaired on the head I installed new ARP studs with sealer on the threads and the shank portion liberally coated with a copper-based anti-seize
    compound.The head was installed and torqued with just motor oil on the nuts.
    I had the occasion to remove the head again this spring after four years of service
    and can tell you what a delight it was not to have to fight it. The ARP studs have
    an allen head in the top of the stud that allowed me to turn them all right out.
    The anti-seize compound was mostly still intact and after cleaning the factory
    black oxide finish on the studs was still in great shape. I plan to do my 30 Essex
    in a similar fashion for ease of service in the future.
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    SamJ wrote:
    Many years ago I used to pass Windermere Farms outside of Toronto and see Kentucky Derby winner Northern Dancer grazing in his paddock. He spent summers in Ontario and winters in Kentucky. I always thought, what a great job...you run a couple of miles and you get to retire and be head stud for the rest of your life...:unsure:

    Mercy Sam!
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    edited August 2011
    OK, I found head and other studs by Dorman online at good old Rockauto.com. These guys are great to deal with, ships fast and lists a lot of Hudson parts.

    Search for studs under Extras,(at top of page) Hardware, Stud
  • TheOldTimer
    TheOldTimer Member
    I just took the head off a 1953 Hudson 308, it had 1/2" studs, quite a process I'll say...
    got them all out but 2 by jamming 2 nuts together... the middle two were stuck, had to use a concentric stud remover, it brought the head up with it as it came...  
    so, now I'm stuck, I need 6 studs to put it back together...
    Anyone have a lead on the right parts ???

    Really appreciate the help.

    Thanks

    The Old Timer...
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