NEW: Info on 8.8 Stepdown Rear-Axle swap...

rambos_ride

Hi All,



I know there are several threads on-going on the forum about this subject, I've even started a few! But, I have been doing some research and took my rear-axle to a trusted shop yesterday to take measurements and get some opinions on options for an upgrade.



My axle guy suggested going with a 95+ Ford Explorer 8.8 rear axle. 31 spline axles, 3.25 inch tubes (most have disc brakes setup already), is stronger and weighs less than a Ford 9" . It would need to be narrowed, but he thinks that the axles can be cut and re-splined which would save $$ on that part of the swap.



I looked on a local wrecking yard's website and found a "Caliper to Caliper" axle with 3.73 gears for $475.00



So, Has anyone used this style rear-axle in a stepdown model? If so, what were your experiences? Does anyone have one for sale?



Thanks



Dan

[Deleted User]

I have some more information on the 8.8 rearend for you. You see I have been running these since Ford started making them in 85 or 86. (I was and still am into the 5.0 Mustang stuff) Then are no way as strong as a 9 inch rearend BUT they are much cheeper to modify because of the Mustang 5 litre boys.

I have found that the best one to use and the one I put under my 50 Pacemaker coupe drag car is out of the 1986 thru 1993 Mustang and the 87 & 88 T-bird turbo coupe with the 5-speed also used a 3.55 to 1 version (automatic t-birds of this vintage used the 7.5 rear). The T-bird version has disc brakes with 3/4" wider axles to clear all the added parking brake parts. The T-bird housing is the same exact width as the Mustang.

Its real easy to convert this rearend over from 4 lug to 5 lug with either new or junkyard parts. You can put Ranger drum brakes & two of the longer Ranger axles in both the Mustang or T-bird rearend and keep the Hudson wheels. This is exactly what I am doing on my 50 Racemaker. The track will increase by about 1" each side over the stock Hudson track (57" vs 55" I believe) but that works out better for wheel selection.

One thing you cannot easily do is re-spline the stock axles because they neck down between the splines & wheel bearing area. Also they are ALL c-clip retention style.

By using the Ranger brake parts you can easily convert to Moser's C-clip eliminator heavy duty axles which will strengthen this rear end somewhat.

The real week link is the caps & carrier as I have exploded 3 myself and personally know of about 30 others in friends cars that didn't hold up. For the best severe useage you will need to install a aftermarket girdle cover, a Aurburn PRO carrier or

a Locker style carrier, Moser forged axles with c-clip elliminators.

In a true street car that will not be ridden hard the stock stuff will work for a while

but the TORQUE of the Hudson six at such a low RPM will take its toll.

You will have to cut off all the stock 4-link brackets and weld on new spring pearches in the correct location. I made a bracket that bolted to the lower driver's side shock & spring plate that the track locator bar bolts to.

Right now I am trying to deciede how to notch out the bottom rear crossmember so a one piece driveshaft will work.

One thing you can count on is that the aftermarker support for the 8.8 is by far bigger than any other rearend in production today. Ford has make millions of them and used a heaver casting version in all their light duty trucks since 1985. You should be able to make the one you have listed above work with narrowed axles but I would use Mosers c-clip eliminator kit & axles to do it right.

Hope this helps...

PaceRacer50

Unknown

Dan, I don't have one for sale but I can tell you how to narrow yours. $475 end to end is a good price and you still end up with the same bolt pattern!

Best of luck!



Larry

Unknown

There are lots of you out there that want a Ford 9in rear, but don't possess the knowledge or machinery to do the fabrication yourself.This insert is for you! Never fear, there's something out there that outweighs both knowledge, AND machinery. It's called "MONEY"! (ha)

Sometimes, paying a professional to do a job right, the first time, far outweighs trying to do it yourself. I took the "shortcut", and sent my original rear to Currie Enterprises, in Ca. They cut a Ford 9in, EXACTLY the same as the original, complete with disc brakes, and parking brake. They welded the spring perches, and panhard bar bracket too. When I got the new rear, all I had to do was paint, and bolt in. It was a perfect fit! It set me back $2400, which is more than some people pay for their whole car, but I got all new parts, that can be easily replaced. By it being a "bolt-in" job, I didn't have to change a lot of other suspension parts either. Besides, if the day ever comes that I want to sell my '48, the fact that it has a professionally built rear,(THAT CAN BE DOCUMENTED) will add $$$$. Except to a "Purist"! (ha)

Unknown

I agree 1000%. I used Currie 15 years ago for the same project. Of course, it was only about $800 without the pumpKin... Times have changed!! Also, if any of you out there want to tub and re-frame the rear portion of your stepdown, Mark Williams has all of the measurements to form box tube frame rails. I can give instructions to anyone that wants to know how to do this. We ran 14/32's on our '53 Wasp drag car. That's a lot of rubber, usually reserved for the Super Gas cars which run on a 9.9 index.