Clutch Adjustment After Installation

BigSkyBigSky Posts: 1,090Senior Contributor
in HUDSON
I’ve completed the installation of my clutch.  Initial I set the distance of pedal arm end to firewall per the manual. Unfortunately I was getting some grinding going into gear. A friend recommended I not worry about the manuals Recommendation but instead set the pedal with about 1 inch of free play.
 
I did this & it seemed to work.  A few days later it appeared I was getting some gear grinding up shifting into 3rd or down shifting into 2nd.  So I adjusted the fork 1/2 turn up & that made it too difficult to get into gear when shifting.  Thus I put it back the way it was & while it goes into gear much easier I still get a little bit of grinding.  

Thus I’m wondering if any experts on clutch adjustment may have advice on how to adjust the new clutch?  Thanks!

Comments

  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,713Senior Contributor
    What year model are looking at?

    If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging.
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 1,090Senior Contributor
    37 Hudson & went from a 9” to a 10” clutch, etc. 
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,713Senior Contributor
    Do you have the link on the inner hole?  When you say "grinding" do you mean when first engaging gear, or when changing gear?   Could be a change in shifting technique required.
    If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging.
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 1,090Senior Contributor
    Yeah, middle hole & when changing.  I’m shifting slower than the electric hand that I removed, which is odd.  Just a normal shift pace nothing fast but I’m not lagging as I shift either.
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,713Senior Contributor
    You need to shift up as fast as you can move the lever. 
    If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging.
  • ToddhToddh Posts: 427Member
    edited June 12
    On my ‘34, I’m in third by 20mph or so. I found that trying to ‘wind it out’ just seemed to cause more gear clash
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 1,090Senior Contributor
    Geoff, I hate to have you redefine “You need to shift up as fast as you can move the lever.” But after reading Toddy’s comments I started to wonder what you actually meant?  Are you meaning just shift the lever as fast as you can, when you choose to shift or shift into a higher gear sooner as to not run the rpm’s up?  
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,713Senior Contributor
    Both!    When you change up gears, do it at a reasonable speed,  and use the engine torque to accelerate.  Change from low to  second at about 10 m.p.h. and shift the gear stick as fast as you can.   Change to top at around 20 - 25 m.p.h. at the most, and again, do a fast change.  Any pausing in neutral will cause clashing.  
    If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging.
  • ToddhToddh Posts: 427Member
    Absolutely,Geoff.  That’s exactly what he needs to do
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 1,090Senior Contributor
    Interesting!  I was thinking I needed to slow down more but that’s great information & I look forward to trying it!
  • Old Fogey UKOld Fogey UK Posts: 1,036Expert Adviser
    First gear to second quickly, as you would with a syncro gearbox, but an unhurried double-clutch change to top gear.
    With the change to top, I invariably get a graunch at anything much over 20 mph - at 15 mph it's as smooth as silk.
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,713Senior Contributor
    A very important detail to check is the correct bolt fitted to the bottom right bell housing hole.   This must be a 7/16" bolt inserted from the front, through the engine plate.  If a smaller bolt is used the  bell housing will mis-align through torque reaction, and the input shaft will bind in the clutch spline.  Causes both crunching when engaging gear form rest, and hard changing when driving. 
    If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging.
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 1,090Senior Contributor
    I had mine inserted backwards at 1st & after everything was tight I realized it was backwards.  So I took it out & really struggled to get it in place.  Had to tap with a hammer to get it in.  Makes me wonder if it could so off?
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 1,090Senior Contributor
    So I’ve been driving the 37 this summer & still getting grinding up shifting, especially going into 3rd gear.  It’s becoming concerning & frustrating too as it takes the fun out of driving it.  Anyone have suggestions or ideas?  
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,713Senior Contributor
    Refine your shifting technique
    If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging.
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 1,090Senior Contributor
    That’s gonna kill my 1/4 mile time! 😂
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,713Senior Contributor
    No it will enhance it.  Hudson boxes love fast shifts. 
    If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging.
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 1,090Senior Contributor
    edited August 28
    When I had the electric hand on it did shift very fast, I mean shockingly fast!  I just got back from having one of the local Hudson experts & retired mechanic drive it.  He felt it shifted fine but I had to slow down the speed of my shifts.  Basically a pause in neutral & the more rpm I run it up the more of a delay I needed.  So I slowed my shifts down with a pause in between and shift at lower rpm & I don’t get grinding.  ☹️

    He did note my clutch adjustment was off as there was barely any free play in the pedal before the clutch started to release.  I tried his 51’s clutch & it was 1.5 to 2” of play before you felt the clutch when pushing in the pedal.  So I’ll fix that & see what it does, my only worry is when I had it with more pedal play it didn’t want to go into gear or out of gear.  (Not 100% on which way caused what with the adjustment but after the clutch replacement in June it was difficult to get it right.) 

  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 1,090Senior Contributor
    Adjusted the clutch tonight & it seems to have the correct pedal free play.  On to figure out the pull to the right with the brakes!
  • tigermothtigermoth Posts: 558Expert Adviser
    I took my drums to a local machine shop (brake shop would not touch them) for $20 per drum they turned them and the shoes now maté properly. No more pull. 
     I use the shift to the upper gear early, but I use a slow shift lever move and it always just drops into gear. 

    Regards, Tom
  • Old Fogey UKOld Fogey UK Posts: 1,036Expert Adviser
    I endorse what Tom says about gear shifting - at about 15mph with a double clutch produces a smooth, quiet change.
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 1,090Senior Contributor
    I did adjust the free play.  If I slow down my shifting it shifts or double clutch it she shifts just fine.  When I try to shift it at higher rpm, it doesn’t seem to like it.  In the future I’ll have to see if double clutching from higher rpm’s allows me to rev higher but not have such a delay in the shifting.  
    I will most likely rebuild/ restore the electric hand unit & re-install it.  Previously that shifted very fast with no grinding so hopefully that will be the same.  Thanks everyone. 
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,713Senior Contributor
    The thing is not to over-rev.  You don't need to drive like a sports car. The engine has heaps of torque to handle acceleration. Changing up you should not have to double de-clutch. My technique is to change from low to second at no more than 10-15 m.p.h., with a sharp movement of the lever immediately upon  depressing the clutch.  And from second  to top at around 20-25 max.  Any pause after depressing the clutch will result in clashing. 
    If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging.
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 1,090Senior Contributor
    Ok, I will give your method a go!  Thanks!
Sign In or Register to comment.