Water Jacket Source ?
Old Fogey UK
Expert Adviser
Is there anyone out there fabricating water jackets for the pre war engines ?
I've just given mine the citric acid de-rusting treatment and the lower third looks like someone's shot a 20 Gauge at it.
As a temporary measure, I'll solder up the holes but the jacket is without doubt heading for the last round-up and I'm going to need a replacement before too long.
I've just given mine the citric acid de-rusting treatment and the lower third looks like someone's shot a 20 Gauge at it.
As a temporary measure, I'll solder up the holes but the jacket is without doubt heading for the last round-up and I'm going to need a replacement before too long.
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Comments
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A good coat of POR15 tank sealant would seal it up. Sets rock hard, and impervious to solvents.0
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A little bit of add to Geoff' response.... cover the outside of the water jacket where the holes are and fill the inside with JB Weld or a similar metal mix epoxy let that dry then add the POR 15. My thought is that repair will outlast us both!0
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Consider grit blasting to clean then copper coating, then soldering, then copper coating again.
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Thank you all for the advice.
I didn't realise I could fill the holes with epoxy or that I could use tank sealant in a cooling system.
I will follow that advice.
I fear grit blasting could make even more holes as the 88 years old metal has become very thin in the areas where there the holes have appeared.
Because all the holes aren't accessible from inside the jacket, I'll have to use the epoxy to fill them from the outside and then slosh the tank sealant around inside the jacket to coat the whole of the inside.
If it sets rock hard, the sealant will, hopefully, strengthen the metal and slow down further rusting.
Longer term, I'll try to get the ROC to make a further run of stainless steel water jackets which although pricey would be a permanent solution to the problem - at the moment, they're out of stock.0 -
You could temporarily remove the baffle plate, repair the holes from the inside and retack the baffle plate if useable. IOtherwise fabricate a new plate and tack that in place and slosh the jacket. I am surprised the baffle plate still exists if the jacket has holes rotted in it.Regards, Tom0
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Mine was not good. I was able to find a nickel in the us. I kept the other. Thanks for the tip; I will be able to renovate it and keep it in stock.
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Fogey: when you talk to the Railton people, please remind them that there's a market for those pre-war jackets in the U.S., as well. They could announce any future production via the White Triangle News, and ask for some sort of down payment. If they doubled the number of reproductions, it could lead to lower prices for all.0
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I'll try, Jon.Jon B said:Fogey: when you talk to the Railton people, please remind them that there's a market for those pre-war jackets in the U.S., as well. They could announce any future production via the White Triangle News, and ask for some sort of down payment. If they doubled the number of reproductions, it could lead to lower prices for all.0 -
I'm hoping that POR 15 tank sealant will stand up to antifreeze.0
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Thank you for the tip.terraplane8 said:0 -
This thread has some useful info too:
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Thanks for this - mine isn't as bad as the one shown in the thread !terraplane8 said:This thread has some useful info too:
I'm going to plug the holes with JB Weld.
I've had second thoughts about sloshing tank sealer inside as pooling of the sealer can lead to bubbles and subsequent flaking off, which could lead to a further cooling problem all of its own.0
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