remove a steering wheel BOSS from a 1928 Essex

MariusMarius Posts: 134Member
what is the procedure to remove a steering wheel BOSS from a 1928 Essex ?

Comments

  • paulrhd29nzpaulrhd29nz Posts: 294Member
    If it’s the original pot metal one …… a hammer. 
    It will likely crumble to bits. Cast metal replacements are being made. Look in the back of your WTN. 
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,714Senior Contributor
    Remove the light switch and hand throttle shafts, and horn button,  undo the nut, and  remove the boss.  It will most likely break. 
    If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging.
  • MariusMarius Posts: 134Member
    Geoff said:
    Remove the light switch and hand throttle shafts, and horn button,  undo the nut, and  remove the boss.  It will most likely break. 
    there is NO light switch
    the horn button..does it just unscrew?
    the timing lever and throttle ,i saw on my spare steering wheel assembly seems like a no brainer, so the horn ?? i don't want to break anything , as my '28 is very driveable ,with the 1972 toyota motor and transmission, ......

  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,714Senior Contributor
    I don't know on the l.h.d. models.  On my r.h.d. the bezel unscrews, and the horn button just sits inside that.  On your car the light switch will be on the bottom of the  steering box, with a lever  at the top actuating it. 
    If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging.
  • 29sptphaeton29sptphaeton Posts: 436Member
    If your car has a 72 Toyota engine and transmission it has been converted to 12 volts and probably has a later headlight switch, and horn.
  • MariusMarius Posts: 134Member
    If your car has a 72 Toyota engine and transmission it has been converted to 12 volts and probably has a later headlight switch, and horn.
    the headlight switch is a pull out knob on the dash, the steering wheel has the timing and throttle that are NOT hooked on  and horn button does work, yes the electrical is 12V, only motor and transmission is 1972 toyota (with a modified driveshaft, the rest on the car is all 1928, other than the complete restoration expertly done
  • MariusMarius Posts: 134Member
    Marius said:
    If your car has a 72 Toyota engine and transmission it has been converted to 12 volts and probably has a later headlight switch, and horn.
    the headlight switch is a pull out knob on the dash, the steering wheel has the timing and throttle that are NOT hooked on  and horn button does work, yes the electrical is 12V, only motor and transmission is 1972 toyota (with a modified driveshaft, the rest on the car is all 1928, other than the complete restoration expertly done

    Marius said:
    If your car has a 72 Toyota engine and transmission it has been converted to 12 volts and probably has a later headlight switch, and horn.
    the headlight switch is a pull out knob on the dash, the steering wheel has the timing and throttle that are NOT hooked on  and horn button does work, yes the electrical is 12V, only motor and transmission is 1972 toyota (with a modified driveshaft, the rest on the car is all 1928, other than the complete restoration expertly done


  • MariusMarius Posts: 134Member
    How does the horn and timing stuff come off to replace boss
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,714Senior Contributor
    You have to remove the clamps at the bottom of the steering column and withdraw the  shafts from the top.   You may have to  loosen the steering box  bolts to allow room to swivel the box  to give room, and withdraw the  shafts through the rear window
    If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging.
  • MariusMarius Posts: 134Member
    OMG.... i will keep this info until needed
  • MariusMarius Posts: 134Member
     ut how does the horn button come off?

  • MariusMarius Posts: 134Member
    my '
    B' key does not work all the time on laptop
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,714Senior Contributor
    Not sure on the horn button,, as our r.h.d. cars are different, but I'm sure it will be plain to see once you get the shafts out.  
    If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging.
  • MariusMarius Posts: 134Member
    well someone mentioned about a 2 hr job,
    CORRECT
    however it took me over 3 days only a few minutes at a time,
    took a chisel to the non magnetic boss and saved the screws, and after thinking ill never get to drive the car again ,i just worked at cleaning off the 100 year old rust, repainted the rust and got it all together . 
    So the 2 hrs is rather accurate , i started in september now being march and finally got by butt in gear
    thank you for all your knowledge on this group.....

    now for the spokes and the 3/4'' shils OR get new spokes built in PA......
  • MariusMarius Posts: 134Member
    SHIMS not Shils... late correction
     
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