Oil filters on Stepdowns

53NamedGeorge53NamedGeorge Posts: 52Member
I’m aware of all of the controversy over these on the step down models . I would like some factual evidence if anyone can convey any .
1 do they work ?

2 steel copper or rubber hoses? 

3 what pressure is put out through those lines?
Thanks 
Blake

Comments

  • cchancelcchancel Posts: 184Member
    They work, but not nearly as well as modern filtration setups.  The evidence is what is trapped in the filter which I see every time I replace the filter cartridge during an oil change.  It is a "bypass" oil filter so not all of the oil is filtered through it as the oil cycles through the engine.  It is a significant failing and why some have engineered other approaches.

    Rubber/hydraulic hoses.  I recommend getting 2 OMIX-ADA 17470.10 lines. 

    I am not sure what the pressure experienced by the lines is, but they handle it well.



  • 53NamedGeorge53NamedGeorge Posts: 52Member
    edited October 31
    @cchancel thanks a ton, that’s what I’ve been thinking of ;is that any filter is better than none. Even if it is a partial flow system . (Happy All Hallows’ eve)
    -Blake
  • cheyenne7271cheyenne7271 Posts: 360Member
    Beware that there needs to be a restriction in the line coming out of the block, I don’t know what the size of that is, to maintain oil pressure in the engine. I learned the hard way after a full and expensive rebuild. Thank fully I only lost one bearing. 
  • 53NamedGeorge53NamedGeorge Posts: 52Member
    @cheyenne7271 I hope one of the older members might jump in to assist in said specs.
    thanks 
    -Blake
  • cheyenne7271cheyenne7271 Posts: 360Member
    Me too. I need to look at some of my engines to see if I can see what it is
  • superwaspsuperwasp Posts: 207Member
    I cleaned up an original Hudson version for use on mine. It had a curious 45 degree brass elbow at the canister on the input side. When I dismantled it to clean it I noticed the 45 had a built in restriction. The oriface was clearly smaller than the rest of the fittings and hoses. I assumed it was there to keep from over-flowing to the canister and causing it to leak. I hadn't thought about parasitic flow that might starve the rest of the engine.
  • GlowplugGlowplug Posts: 2,231Expert Adviser
    The question is valid.... the experience of many is also valid.  The use of a Hudson or other canister oil filter is quite a bit of trouble for almost ZERO positive and the possibility catastrophic failure of your engine.   Hudson DID NOT offer a add on oil filter.  A supplier FRAM did offer a kit that was sold through Hudson dealers to place on the BIG SIX and other engines. This was called UP SELLING A CUSTOMER and well explained in the Hudson Service magazines.   When these strap on items are used there is a big opportunity for oil line or connection failure as well as the blocking from the filter.  My limited experience was use of a FRAM filter with new flex lines and a WIX filter element. The three times I changed oil during its use, I cut the filters apart to determine if there was evidence of contamination.  Granted I did not use high quality oil filter evaluation equipment or analysis of the drain oil... but in ALL cases the filters were as clean as a test filter I placed in the chamber overnight and cut in half as a test example.  The thing added the mystic of - does it filter the oil while creating a failure point not needed.  Fortunately when one of the lines on my engine began to leak the dash "red light" alerted me.  I pulled over and  got home on a rollback.  A check of the dipstick showed 2 quarts had escaped the crankcase. I pulled the lines and put the plugs back into the block.  Then pulled MR WIX for the last time.  Same result when I cut the filter... lots of oil but NO color change or contamination.  My unscientific result are:  I have a filter still bolted on the original car... but NO connections.  A Spot of Orange under the hood.  Would I put another one of those on my Hudson....NO-NO and Heck NO!
  • railknightrailknight Posts: 460Expert Adviser
    What is the size of the plugs and of what material for those of us who perhaps want to disable our by-pass filter canister?
  • GlowplugGlowplug Posts: 2,231Expert Adviser
    edited November 1
    Railknight the plugs were the originals I kept and returned to the block.  I will look tomorrow to see if I have a set to take specs from...
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,316Senior Contributor
    plugs are 1/8" NPT
  • railknightrailknight Posts: 460Expert Adviser
    Thanks for the information, Geoff.  I purchased two 1/8" brass plugs today.  Here's an informative story by Military Vehicle/Trader on full flow and by-pass oil filters and how to service a by-pass filter during an oil change:  Servicing Your HMV Oil Filter - Military Trader/Vehicles
  • WABOOMWABOOM Posts: 30Member
    I put a 1/16 restrictor orifice in my set up. I made it using a spent .22 case.
  • 50C8DAN50C8DAN Posts: 2,364Senior Contributor
    edited November 4
    Wow that is tiny!  What is that about 1/16" hole?
  • 50C8DAN50C8DAN Posts: 2,364Senior Contributor
    edited November 4
    Sorry did not see the previous post that this was 1/16"  however this really begs the question if the bypass filter is really doing much of anything?
  • 53NamedGeorge53NamedGeorge Posts: 52Member
    @50C8DAN I’m starting to wonder the same thing. Is it worth it with such little oil going through the system . Most of the guys in my club say it’s a waste of time and money . They just change the oil every 1500-2000. 
  • WABOOMWABOOM Posts: 30Member
    Ford Flatheads used a 1/16  orifice so that's what I went with. I assume the bigger it is the less oil #5 main bearing on a 308 gets. The literature I saw estimates that the entire 5.5 quart capacity on a Ford flatty gets filtered 30 minutes at highway speeds. 
  • 53NamedGeorge53NamedGeorge Posts: 52Member
    @WABOOM thank you for the insight . Even with all this scince and thought m still not sure weather or not to hook mine up . If not I just change the oil more often 
  • WABOOMWABOOM Posts: 30Member
    I was wrong..  it's 5 minutes not 30 minutes. And apparently some guys use a .040 restrictor orifice. 
  • cheyenne7271cheyenne7271 Posts: 360Member
    In my stash of parts I have a 3/4” or so block that fits where the cover plate is on the oil pump. It has a 1/2” NPT threaded hole to plumb an oil line to a remote spin on filter that takes a PH8A filter. This was run on a full house Clifford built engine back in the 70s. I’ll see if I can find it and post a pic this weekend. 
  • WABOOMWABOOM Posts: 30Member
    I would love to see a pic of
    that. I want to make one. 
  • cheyenne7271cheyenne7271 Posts: 360Member
    This is that oil pump plate, 1” thick with a 1/2” NPT hole in it. I think the return line went to a fitting welded to the oil pan.
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