Positive battery lead

stevepetstevepet Posts: 39Member
Hi everyone
Just having a look at my positive battery lead its looking a bit sick. Anything in particular I shhould be looking for in the new one.
TIA
Steven

Comments

  • jjbubaboyjjbubaboy Posts: 864Senior Contributor
    What year and model car? 6 volt or 12?

  • stevepetstevepet Posts: 39Member
    Whoops sorry. 52 wasp 6 volt positive ground
  • cchancelcchancel Posts: 173Member
    Get a heavy gauge cable as a replacement (0 gauge).  Don't neglect the strap/cable from the battery tray to the engine either.  Tractor supply, Brillman, etc. will carry heavy cables.
  • 50C8DAN50C8DAN Posts: 2,276Senior Contributor
    One of the biggest problems with 6V cars is folks use 12V replacement cables and they cannot carry the current the system requires.  Also, bad or corroded connectors are a problem.  I remember listening to Click and Clack on NPR years ago and a guy with a '39 LaSalle called in with starter problems.  The guys told him to rebuild the starter and use an 8V battery -WRONG!  He called back a few months later and said well it worked for about a month or so.  What went wrong?  1) there was probably nothing wrong with the starter, to begin with; 2) the guy probably had badly corroded connections to the ground and other places; 3) the 8V battery worked until the car, which the voltage regulator was set up for 6V only provided 6V again since it would not charge the battery back to 8V.

    The guys were stumped and said he may still have a bad starter.  The guys were good at comedy but when it came to old cars they were all wet.
  • Huddy42Huddy42 Posts: 1,222Senior Contributor
    Over the years we have used 8 volt batteries in our cars , just adjust the third brush to suit. Never had a problem. Our battery supplier cut down  12 volt batteries cases to 8 volt.
  • 50C8DAN50C8DAN Posts: 2,276Senior Contributor
    edited June 6
    The 8V trick is a bandaid for other electrical problems.  My C8 has had a 6V battery since I have had it on the road and never a problem.  Keep the connections clean, tight and use the right sized cables.  8V puts stress on all the light bulbs and the rest of the system.  Use an 8V at your peril.  Fix the system right the first time.
  • cchancelcchancel Posts: 173Member
    I've seen way too many cases where people I knew have wasted time, money, and frustration on 6v and 12v systems when the solution was just to replace bad/insufficient cables.  Comparatively speaking, cables are cheap and easy.
  • eddiehudsoneddiehudson Posts: 37Member
    I believe your car came with a ground strap and not a cable.
  • cchancelcchancel Posts: 173Member
    It would have originally been a strap from battery to battery tray and a separate strap from battery tray to engine mount.  The straps have more exposed surface area and are more vulnerable to corrosion.  Do what you think is best.
  • stevepetstevepet Posts: 39Member
    What would be the correct size strap?

    Thank you
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 942Senior Contributor
    On my 37 Hudson coupe I soldered up some new 6 volt battery cables with new ends.  I went to a welding supply & bought 2/0 AWG 00 Gauge battery cable by the foot.  I also used some electrical heat shrink on the soldered joint to keep corrosion at bay.  With the new cables I have had no issues starting.  The starter spins so strong that I don’t think one would even guess it wasn’t 12 volt.  
    I highly recommend making sure you have the correct sized cables because it really does make a difference.  


  • stevepetstevepet Posts: 39Member
    now that looks good. Will give that a go. What did you use to get enough heat into the cable and battery terminal?
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 942Senior Contributor
    edited June 7
    The heat shrink works with a hair dryer.  Just be sure to slide it down the wire before you solder the last end on or you probably won’t get it over the end.  Then you can slide it into place & heat it to shrink it on nicely. 

    The connection between the cable & end was soldered with a propane torch & electrical solder.  It used a fair amount of solder to fill all the area between each strand but worked out well.   I don’t think I have saved anymore photos of it but will post if I do. 
  • JACK356JACK356 Posts: 200Member
    The original cable completely HS. Redoes a new cable with a crimping of the lids at a friend electrician. Then install an expandable sheath on top of the cable.












  • hasktavern1hasktavern1 Posts: 56Member
    The larger than OEM welding cable works so well that it makes one wonder why it wasn't spec'd in the first place.   :)
  • 50C8DAN50C8DAN Posts: 2,276Senior Contributor
    $$$$$
  • stevepetstevepet Posts: 39Member
    In the process of  making some up using 50mm cable. Let you know how it goes.
    Thanks for your help
  • 54coupe54coupe Posts: 761Member
    stevepet said:
    In the process of  making some up using 50mm cable. Let you know how it goes.
    Thanks for your help
     50mm ???? That's about 2" diameter! Bigger is better, but that is extreme. Where would you buy ends to connect it to your battery? I would love to see a photo of that.
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 942Senior Contributor
    I’m going with a typo…


  • jjbubaboyjjbubaboy Posts: 864Senior Contributor
    I did the same with mine. I don't recall where I ordered everything from, but I got the cable, battery terminals and solder lugs and made them up. Yes, it does make a big difference!
  • 50C8DAN50C8DAN Posts: 2,276Senior Contributor
    Correct Positive terminal (ground) strap.  Here is the proper strap for the positive terminal on your 6V battery.  It is on my '50C8


  • railknightrailknight Posts: 444Expert Adviser
    I have one of those braided, positive ground straps on my '53 Super Wasp.  I believe I purchased it from Dave Kostansek about nine years ago.  
  • JACK356JACK356 Posts: 200Member
    Mine is marked Ford    :p
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