1955 Hudson Wasp

supercub

I would rather recore it than try to match it up, that game is a tough one. It is more of an intermittent spit.

Jon B

This is a shot in the dark, but: is it possible that '55 Nash radiators would interchange?  (Same basic body...). 

Here's a Nash parts vendor with one for a '55-56 Ambassador V8 engine (without AC), and one for a '55 Statesman with AC

The website is here: http://www.nashparts.com/Parts/Group2.htm

supercub

The 55 V8 Ambassador one looks similar but the hose nipples are diagonally opposite. I have a list of radiator shops within an hours drive, I will start ringing them up tomorrow morning. It came out real easy. I got two of the tires mounted today. I will bring the other three next Saturday. 

supercub

I brought the radiator to a radiator shop for recoring. Should have it next Tue. Someone had changed the csp for a 7psi one.
 

superwasp

All caps are the same, right??? 

supercub

I thought they were all like 14psi. I checked the manual, they say that the cap maintains the pressure at 6-3/4 to 7-3/4 for non AC, and 12-15 for AC. Not sure why, but from that, maybe the 7 was the closest someone could find, so I'll leave that one on.
I pulled the thermostat out, going to test it. It is a 180 deg.

supercub

I found that #5 plug wire was just dangling from the tip of the plug. It was hidden behing the air box. I pressed on the wire boots to the plugs and dist cap all of the way. The points are pitted, Im going change out the ignition stuff after I get the radiator installed. 

superwasp

Also check to be sure your exhaust heat valve is opening and closing appropriately. Our Hudson valves are notorious for sticking. It's amazing how those impact drivability when they stick. 

supercub

I see a stub shaft protruding from the manifold next to the carb, that must be it? Should it rotTe freely or under spring pressure? I can see tool marks on it.

superwasp

There should be some spring resistance to it. Cold it should hold the valve open to shunt heat to the bottom of the carb. As it heats up, the spring should lose resistance and allow the counterweight to take over and close the valve to shunt exhaust downstream. They often get stuck in one position. I've also seen the springs installed backward by previous owners.

superwasp

This is a 262 single carb setup for a step down. I'm not sure exactly what yours should looks like, but I believe the spring should still be external on your setup. Maybe someone familiar with Nash bodied can chime in to confirm.

supercub

That is the end sticking out of the shroud, there isnt much gap between the shroud and the msnifold, cant quite see in there.

supercub

theres the othe other side of the shaft , a spring with a linkage. The shaft is frozen.

superwasp

I bet that's contributing to your stumble, especially if it's stuck shunting exhaust downstream away from the carb. You might try spraying some PB Blaster on that shaft if you have some. I bet that will free it up if you spray it then warm it and repeat a  few times. I learned that trick trying to get exhaust studs out of Triton engines without breaking them.?

supercub

I have some pb blaster, I have freed up alot of frozen stuff with it, a few heat cycles and spray. I can make a bar with a split clamp to put on the shaft end to turn it.
  I havent confirmed yet but I think the spark plug wire that was dangling could be the smoking gun on the stumble, as it was erratic. I should get my radiator Tuesday, I can fire it up to see.

supercub

I got the recored radiator in and took it for a spin. The radiator worked out great. The sputtering was from the loose plug wire, it runs smoothly now and shifts good but the shift lever needs to be adjusted, it pops out of reverse into low. Adjustment looks easy in the manual.
It started leaking gas from the vicinity of the fuel pump, have to take a better look in the daylight.