It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Having seen the picture, I thinkyou need to look at the carbon button in the centre of the cap. It is not normal for the spring arm contact to be burnt in this manner. I think you will find the center button eroded away, and will need a new distributor cap.
bob ward said:
Distributor carbon buttons can be DIYed and fitted to the centre spring. If the centre spring is RS the spring from a biro or similar can be adapted.Wildrick have Terraplane distributor caps.
Fogey These are 6 cylCAP 1927-33ET IGB 1031, 1934-47ALL IGB 1240ROTOR 1927-33ET IGB1002, 1934-47ALL IGB 1239
The IGW-4103A Distributor factory installed in the 1938 Series 83 6 engine.Service parts for this distributor are:IGB1240 - Distributor CapIGW3028S - Contact pointsIGB1239 - RotorIGW1025J Condenser -- This condenser is .20-.25 MFD per Autolite manualIG4650 - CoilInformation source: 1942 Chilton Flat Rate and Service manual EddieHudson's information is identical to that in this manual.
Old Fogey UK said:My friend's car has been what the British call "bodged" - meaning that it's been restored using parts from different years and/or makes that have been adapted/tortured to fit.
My car was retrofitted at some point eliminating the original ElectroLock coil and replacing it with a separate key switch and in this case a Ford coil mounted on the fire wall with terminals facing down. Funny thing the mounting bracket on the Ford coil lined right up with mounting nuts fixed it the fire wall. I replaced the wiring, except HT leads, in 2016 with a set made by Rhode Island Wiring. The HT leads were replaced in 1998 by my father-in-law. I assume they are correct for the non-resistor type plug. I plan on replacing them.
Upon advice from Geoff C, I traced down a few things. Had battery voltage thru the starter relay, cutout relay, circuit board under the dash to the key switch BAT terminal.
With full battery voltage at the BAT T with the switch on, got a drop of 0.4 volts across the BAT to the ING / ACC terminals. With all wires removed from SW got 1.3 to 1.5 OHMS across the BAT to the ING / ACC terminals.
At the distributor terminal it had dropped to 5.93 V.
I’d tracked down a new key switch over the winter. It’s a Pollak #31-122P, a div of Standard Motor Products, made in Mexico. It feels robust. I had to wait about 4 weeks for it as they only make this model to order. 0.01 OHM’s across its terminals. After installing it had 6.39 volts at the BAT T, dropped to 6.3 V across the BAT to the ING / ACC terminals. At the distributor terminal it had dropped to 6.31 V.
I checked the OHM’s across the Ford coil as I’ve seen done on the net not knowing if it is a full true test of the coils health. 1.3 across the primary and 3.6K across the primary/secondary.
Installed a new Standard Motor Products coil UC14 from O’Reilly’s.
Installed a new “Condenser for Autolite / Prestolite Distributors” from Brillman.
Installed new AutoLite 295 non-resistor spark plugs.
Installed New Cap & Rotor
Points looked to be in order with no pitting. Gave them a slight filing.
The distributor was set as shown in the attached pic turned to max on the advance arm slot. Used a TDC whistle on #1 to get close then lined up the first mark on the flywheel with the pointer.
I used BIG SKY’s method from his excellent description in a 2018 post to reposition the distributor so the hold down bolt is in the middle of the advance arm slot.
Lined it all up. Set full choke, once the gas got to the carb she fired right up. Slowly pushed the choke in and she settled into a decent idle.
I’m searching the Forum for instruction on the use of the vacuum gauge method for timing. I’m waiting on the Snap On guy to let me know if they’ll repair or replace my late 60’s compression gauge. It no longer holds the max pressure on the gauge making it difficult to get a good reading. Will report back again later.