In Search of Carburetor / Rebuilt My Carburetor.

DEspoDEspo Posts: 4Member
Hello, I am fairly new to this forum. Several months back I made my first post in search of a 1930 Essex super six carburetor replacement or someone who can rebuild mine. Unfortunately, this search still continues today. My float cover has cracked and another part of the carburetor has been broken since then. Please see photos attached. Thank you. 


Comments

  • dholckdholck Posts: 157Expert Adviser
    This will at least spare you from 0 replies again.  Responses on 30s cars can be difficult; the theory being that old guys have the cars and you are better off placing an advertisement in the White Triangle News magazine to reach them.
    That one piece with the threads looks like a big chunk of broken off pot metal.  I hear it is tricky to fix and I don't know how hard it is to find somebody who can do it.  This company claims that they have "the thing," with a system with low melting temperatures, etc.  They mention using it on carburetors. 
    https://www.muggyweld.com/videos/pot-metal-repair/

    This place says they have the following repair kits;
    1930    6cyl 161 Super six (Ball & Socket) Marvel          
    1930    6cyl 161 Super six (Collar)       Marvel                  
    http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/PkitE.htm

    This place says they have a float for a Marvel V-10-733
    https://www.classicandexotic.com/store/p-791-marvel-v-10-733-carburetor-float.aspx

    If you want to know everything else about a 1930 Essex Super Six, including specs, adjustment and inspection of the Marvel carburetor etc., see:
     http://hudsonterraplane.com/tech/1925/1925-30EssexTuneUpBooklet.pdf

  • HansHans Posts: 101Senior Contributor
    Yes it is a 10-140 carb for a 1929 Essex.

    It will not fit a 1930 manifold.

    Your should reconfirm engine serial number and certain external items which can help you.

    You may have a 1930 Essex car with a changed engine.  Although both had 160 cubic inch motors there are other differences easily looked at to confirm.

    1929 had oil pump with one outlet, the 1930 had two outlets, different shaped pumps  too.




  • HansHans Posts: 101Senior Contributor
    Ken your hunch was good.
    Also your info  on sites to refer to should help him a lot.

    The '29 bowl assy uses 3 screws, the '30 uses 4 screws to attach to the base of carb.
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 3,956Senior Contributor
    I have a four-screw 1930 Essex carburettor core.  It is in one piece, but is heavily oxidised (white powder).   You are welcome to it as is, or I can overhaul it.   Postage cost only as-is.   Email me NZgeoffclark@xtra.co.nz  (leave off the leading NZ)
  • charles4dcharles4d Posts: 563Expert Adviser
    Dayton  carburetor  in Fla.
    They can help you
  • HansHans Posts: 101Senior Contributor
    If the carb in the picture actually came from his motor.................then a 4 bolt carb is'nt likely to be of much help.
  • Jon BJon B Posts: 7,089Administrator
    One of the welding rods for pot metal and aluminum, is called "Lumiweld".  It has a very low melting point and can be heated with just a propane torch.  It is tricky to use because the melting points of pot metal and the welding rod, are very close.  I tested Lumiweld by "welding" one piece of aluminum to another, maybe 45 years ago.  It formed a very strong bond, one which I could not break with a hammer.

    Amazon sells Lumiweld: https://www.amazon.com/Lumiweld-Aluminium-Welding-Brazing-Soldering/dp/B07DPSY87H

    A similar product is called Muggyweld:  
    https://www.muggyweld.com/video/pot-metal-carburetor-repair-350f/

  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 3,956Senior Contributor
    Any heat on a 90 year old diecast part is asking for trouble.  JBWeld is  best.
  • HansHans Posts: 101Senior Contributor
    I wish I had a picture of a friends 1930 Essex carb following an engine compartment fire in a 1930 Essex two months ago, to show.
     
    ( note:  make sure the flair on each fuel line is GOOD. )

    The numerous small  shiny little balls of apparent aluminum, protruding from the slag of the remainder. 


    However, Hydrogen  embrittlement which occurs eventually to all aluminum causing degradation of the surfaces and  internal cracks and fissures can allow fuel to enter and cause additional degradation.

    The white powder, or fuzz that some see on aluminum based parts can be the showing of the breakdown.

    I try to avoid leaving alcohol gas  in my  carburetor  so other issues might be avoided or reduced with water etc. corrosion.  My cars do sit for long periods, I do not always siphon out the fuel.



     
  • rusty_apacherusty_apache Posts: 85Member
    I have been told that David Weinstein has reproduced the Marvel V Bowl and lid in brass, I believe. It would be an expensive yet permanent solution to your issues.
    Gary Lynch has the scans as well. I have spoken with a 3 -d printer and my have the entire core assembly reproduced next year some time. 
  • HansHans Posts: 101Senior Contributor
    DEspo  has forwarded pictures of engine to me.
    I have still requested serial number from engine and vehicle cowl plate.

    The pictures clearly show  the inside of the hood side,  Two horizontal rows of louvers.

    So the thought that the car is a 1930 seems more likely to be misleading.

    More number info and pictures will help.
  • DEspoDEspo Posts: 4Member
    Hello everyone, thank you for your responses. I truly appreciate everyone taking the time out to lend me their assistance! The car was running for a while with the pictured carburetor above - so I guess the motor has been swapped with a 1929, I was not aware of this. I have contacted hans and am waiting for his response.
  • rusty_apacherusty_apache Posts: 85Member
    DEspo said:
    Hello everyone, thank you for your responses. I truly appreciate everyone taking the time out to lend me their assistance! The car was running for a while with the pictured carburetor above - so I guess the motor has been swapped with a 1929, I was not aware of this. I have contacted hans and am waiting for his response.


    These guys can scan and reproduce your carburetor even with the cracked pieces. I plan to eventually send mine in but I’m hesitant to disable the car at this time.
     
  • DEspoDEspo Posts: 4Member
    DEspo said:
    Hello everyone, thank you for your responses. I truly appreciate everyone taking the time out to lend me their assistance! The car was running for a while with the pictured carburetor above - so I guess the motor has been swapped with a 1929, I was not aware of this. I have contacted hans and am waiting for his response.


    These guys can scan and reproduce your carburetor even with the cracked pieces. I plan to eventually send mine in but I’m hesitant to disable the car at this time.
     

    Any idea as to the cost on getting this done? Have you reached out to them yet?
  • rusty_apacherusty_apache Posts: 85Member
    Are you sitting down?
    good.
    I asked him for a ballpark figure and he said $1,000, but once he gets the carb he can give a more accurate price. 
    I just paid out $1,000 for a brand new American made reproduction capsule muffler so cost is relative with parts made of unobtanium I suppose.
  • MikeSheridanMikeSheridan Posts: 119Member
    Yes. I've posted about a number of things here that we've remade with 3D CAD. I have always said "It is not cheap"  But we've made parts that you simply cannot obtain any other way. The parts we've made for 33 Terraplanes, the people who have gotten them have been thrilled every time. Many people had looked for the parts for decades. Full disclosure, I make nothing from 3D parts. I merely try to help people become aware of this alternative. Your carb sounds like a perfect candidate for 3D CAD.
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