Cannot Remove Head

I have a 1950 Comodore  8  and am attempting to replace the lifters .
The issue that I have run into is that the head will not budge.
All of the nuts are off,  the studs have been sprayed with penetrating fluid many times.
I have even reattached the plug wire an run the engine for a few seconds.
The head will not move at all.
Has anyone ever run into a stuck head like this?  Help!

Comments

  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,316Senior Contributor
    Is it alloy?   If so you have a problem, as galvanic action between the  studs and holes in the head will be the problem.  However, it could just be that someone has used a super-strong adhesive on the gasket.  I would re-install the head nuts and leave them about 1/4" above the level of the head and run the engine again and see if that shifts anything.   Good luck.
  • ski4life65ski4life65 Posts: 1,116Expert Adviser
    I hate studs. It has happened to me too. I am not sure of a good solution other than running it with the nuts loose. I had a spare head for mine.  I Used a couple of wood chisels and worked my way around the head, tapping them between the head and block. Totally destroyed the head and the chisels, but I didn't really care. That was over 30 years ago. I switched to a cast iron head. I do not recommend my solution......
  • MikeSheridanMikeSheridan Posts: 141Member
    You can try heating just the studs, without the head or block being heated up. The studs will expand just a little while the head is still cold. This may compress any corrosion just enough to help break it loose. Heat one with a torch, get it good and hot, glowing red, then move on to the next one.  When done, let the whole thing cool down and try to loosen the head. 
  • SuperDaveSuperDave Posts: 3,371Senior Contributor
      I did this on a Model A engine  Might work for you.. you will have twice the cylinders (lol). After soaking the studs,  Remove the plugs. Stuff rope in the plug holes.  as much as you can, then turn the engine over with the starter and a wrench on the harmonic balancer nut.. Good luck
  • 54coupe54coupe Posts: 792Member
    SuperDave said:
      I did this on a Model A engine  Might work for you.. you will have twice the cylinders (lol). After soaking the studs,  Remove the plugs. Stuff rope in the plug holes.  as much as you can, then turn the engine over with the starter and a wrench on the harmonic balancer nut.. Good luck
    This sounds like it could bend the valves... If you're planning on replacing them, I guess it doesn't matter.
  • syddthekiddsyddthekidd Posts: 235Expert Adviser
    My dad always had a great story about when he first became a grease monkey at Rieger Motors, a Hudson dealer in Dayton Ohio.  There was a Hudson in for a valve job and the head was stuck on.....they tried everything known to man at the time to get the head off and the mechanic ended up cutting it off with a chisel a chunk at a time over a couple days.
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,316Senior Contributor
    That's how we got the head off the original Continental engine in my  Dad's '36 Graham Crusader.   Ruined everything in the process, so we fitted a Dodge motor in it's place. 
  • cheyenne7271cheyenne7271 Posts: 360Member
    Valves are in the block, the rope is just taking up space on top of the piston, and using leverage of the crank and rods to push the head up
  • cheyenne7271cheyenne7271 Posts: 360Member
    Sounds so crazy it just might work
  • 54coupe54coupe Posts: 792Member
    Valves are in the block, the rope is just taking up space on top of the piston, and using leverage of the crank and rods to push the head up
    The spark plugs are over the valves
  • tigermothtigermoth Posts: 448Expert Adviser
    Anyone ever use rags wrapped around the studs and soak the rags with vinegar..use Saran Wrap to keep the vinegar from evaporating to rapidly..keep it wet for a week or 2...

    regards, Tom
  • supercubsupercub Posts: 149Member
    If it's an aluminum head, vinegar will remove the aluminum oxidation around the studs, applied with a small syringe.  BP blaster works well, with some added heat from a heat gun. Tapping side to side using a 2x4 to hit on.
  • superwaspsuperwasp Posts: 207Member
    X2 on the PB Blaster + heat. That stuff is just amazing.
  • supercubsupercub Posts: 149Member
    Ammonia works good on oxidized aluminum also.
  • Smonica46Smonica46 Posts: 12Member

    Fill the cylinders with" Kroil" its the best made..... and soak all the studs many times the Kriol will get in-between that gasket. buy the kroil in bulk fluid. you can find it online.

    after soaking for a day or two.... then use the rope trick if engine will turn over and fashion 6 or 8 custom rings to thread into plug holes with a common bar sling so you pull even. preload lifting up and try the rope trick. this is a slow process. if you do not have the patience of a Grandfather...find a mech who does... also, you can tap the studs lightly with piece of brass between the stud and hammer while you sling has upward preload on that head. I saw 70 year old mechs do this in the early 70s do this on flat head powered industrial engines on the big Ranch close to where I grew up. They did not have Kroil but a homemade brew like it. Those old mechs were very talented.

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