Advice Needed Pulling Motor/Trans on 1951 Hornet

I've removed the radiator/fan and most of the upper engine cables, hoses, wires, etc and I'm getting ready to go underneath. I'm hoping it's not that bad under there. Any words of wisdom? Also, do I need to remove the grill?
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Comments

  • cheyenne7271cheyenne7271 Posts: 135Member
    If it’s manual transmission, remove the trans drain plug and leave it out so it will clear the cross member, if it’s a hydramatic you should be ok without removing the cross member, even though it’s removable. Grill should be ok in place. 
  • rumblefish351rumblefish351 Posts: 39Member
    edited July 22
    Awesome. Thank you. It's an automatic. I'm planning on pulling engine and transmission together. I'm working on a gravel floor so I'm hoping there's not too much to it underneath. 
  • cheyenne7271cheyenne7271 Posts: 135Member
    Not to bad, but both together are very heavy and that will make moving them in gravel with an engine hoist pretty sketchy
  • 54coupe54coupe Posts: 414Member
    Remove the transmission cover (floorboard) to have easier access to the top Bell housing bolts. The shift arm and throttle rod on the trans are delicate... keep an eye on them when you pull it out. Total weight here is 900-1000 pounds (engine is 700+ Trans is 225+). Make sure your equipment is up to the task. Be careful, and good luck.
  • 29sptphaeton29sptphaeton Posts: 301Member
    I would not recommend using a cheery picker on gravel. The engine and trans. Is heavy enough to make the cherry picker do a wheel stand when you try to move dropping the whole thing on your grill.  Be careful and have help Incase someone has to stand on the back of the picker for ballast.
  • rumblefish351rumblefish351 Posts: 39Member
    Yep, I agree about the cherry picker. Few years back, I found the 'tipping point' with a 351C and FMX in my garage. It was little scary and I'm not gonna risk it with 950 pounds. My shop has overhead trusses that are very stout. I'm laying three 2x10's on their side screwed together up on the trusses with a 4x4 post on each end. The 4x4s are set into pier blocks and support the beam above. I think it will be fine. 
  • rumblefish351rumblefish351 Posts: 39Member
    ou
  • Ken U-TxKen U-Tx Posts: 4,022Senior Contributor
    I always either removed the grill, or removed the whole front clip before pulling/ reinstalling the drive line. To get the grill out on the 51, take the the park light housings out first,  disconnect the hood release cable from the latch, unbolt the cross tie  from fenders, remove the screws holding the outer ends of the top grill bars to the fenders, remove the two screws at back of the HUDSON grill emblem, pull the grill emblem light socket out of the housing and then lift the cross tie, latch, top grill bars and the grill emblem housing out intact. Now, to get the center grill section out, you will have to remove the license plate "horse-collar", and probably the two front bumper guards to be able to pull the grill center section out. At the bottom of the inverted V BARS, take out the two screws under that sheet metal valance between the bumper and the grill. Thee are some sheet metal screws at each side of the center grill section holding it to the small air deflectors attached to the fenders that need to be removed before you can pull the center grill section forward and out. Now you should have a wide enough opening to pull the drive-line out and forward of the car without having to lift it ridiculously high.
  • 49S636T49S636T Posts: 12Member
    I pulled the little motor out of my new jet yesterday. I put a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood on the gravel outside the shop door for easier rolling of the hoist.  I had the front rims off already so I lowered the car all the way down in front for a little extra clearance. I pulled the tranny (standard) from inside. The adjustable tilting engine sling is a wonderful thing. It was relatively easy. When I reinstall with an automatic I will probably remove the grille.
  • 52hudsonman52hudsonman Posts: 41Member
    i would be safe and have a wrecker service or if you have salvage yard close bring a wrecker to do the job a lot of heavy iron
  • rumblefish351rumblefish351 Posts: 39Member
    edited July 24
    I have some safety concerns for sure. I'm rethinking a few things (especially about crawling underneath the car on jack stands and the weight of the engine/trans). Thanks to all of you for the input. 

  • rumblefish351rumblefish351 Posts: 39Member
    edited July 24
    Additional question: When I got this car 3 years ago, I noticed I could not push it around with a few friends. I put car in "N" and took E brake off and it wouldn't budge. I had to use my truck with a tire in between to push car into the shop. The other day, I jacked front end up and could easily spin both front tires, so that tells me the rear wheels aren't wanting to roll. It would be helpful if I could push the car around when I need to move it (esp when pulling the motor/trans). Are the rear brakes rusted or is car not in neutral or ?
  • GlowplugGlowplug Posts: 2,010Expert Adviser
    The guess is the rear brakes are frozen to the drums possibly with rust.  Have to remove drum to check.  
  • KdancyKdancy Posts: 2,472Senior Contributor
    You will need to heat up the drums with a torch after the puller is installed. Take your time and tap around the drums with a hammer as youheat them. Leave the axle nut on with a few threads in case the drum "pops" off. Don't need an accident!!
    ,
  • rumblefish351rumblefish351 Posts: 39Member
    edited July 24
    You guys are awesome! I love this forum. Thanks.
    Also forgot to mention this car sat in storage and didn't move from 1984 thru 2017, so that's more than enough time for some rust to take hold. 
  • rumblefish351rumblefish351 Posts: 39Member

  • rumblefish351rumblefish351 Posts: 39Member
    Found the master cylinder access cover. Not sure what the yellow cover on other side of transmission hump is. Still looking for transmission access cover. 
  • 54coupe54coupe Posts: 414Member
    Take out the carpet. The trans cover goes all the way over to the steering column, and an equal amount on the passenger side. The opening tapers down to about 12 inches wide just in front of the seat. The yellow cover is access to the Transmission dipstick.
  • rumblefish351rumblefish351 Posts: 39Member
    edited July 29
    You mean the cover that's secured by about twenty 7/16th bolts and is covered by mass amounts of carpet, insulation, sound deadening material and seam sealer? I think I found it!
    TY 54coupe!!
  • 54coupe54coupe Posts: 414Member
    That's the one
  • rumblefish351rumblefish351 Posts: 39Member
    edited July 30
    So this is first time working on a Hudson and I don't have a manual. I'm planning on pulling engine and trans together. With regards to the transmission, looks like I need to unfasten the U joints/drive line, speedo, the 2 linkages (shifter and kickdown?) on driver side and then the 4 nuts that fasten trans to the mount? Anything else? 
  • 54coupe54coupe Posts: 414Member
    It will give you a little more room if you remove the Transmission crossmember too.
  • railknightrailknight Posts: 392Expert Adviser
    edited July 30
    You may already have this, but just in case, someone use to reproduce the Hudson stepdown engine lift bracket a few years ago.  I believe it's a reproduction of the Kent Moore tool (J 2782) and what was also used on the Hudson assembly line to install engines.  It might make the removal and re-installation a bit easier if you can locate one.  
  • ratlee2ratlee2 Posts: 291Expert Adviser
    Since it is an automatic, you should remove the kickdown lever from the transmission before you pull the engine and transmission.  It can get caught up on the way out and break the mechanism internally.
  • onerare39onerare39 Posts: 1,049Expert Adviser, Member
    You may already have this, but just in case, someone use to reproduce the Hudson stepdown engine lift bracket a few years ago.  I believe it's a reproduction of the Kent Moore tool (J 2782) and what was also used on the Hudson assembly line to install engines.  It might make the removal and re-installation a bit easier if you can locate one.

    I believe Doug Wildrick had some made a few years ago. 
  • rumblefish351rumblefish351 Posts: 39Member
    edited July 30
    Removing the transmission lever. Great idea. Will do. TY
    That lift bracket looks awesome. I will find one. TY.
    I'm working on the rear wheels trying to get those drums off. They're rusted solid. Bad. I gotta be able to turn rear wheels so I can rotate drive line to remove the U joints and push the car around some. 

  • rumblefish351rumblefish351 Posts: 39Member
    Do they make a special puller for the rear drums?

  • KdancyKdancy Posts: 2,472Senior Contributor
    edited July 30
    I had some (motor lift brackets) made 3 years ago. Sold all of them.
  • ski4life65ski4life65 Posts: 1,031Expert Adviser
    Do they make a special puller for the rear drums?

    Cal-Van 94800 Brake Drum Puller Fits Most Cars Including Air Cooled VWs

    This is what you need. Find on Ebay cheap
  • GlowplugGlowplug Posts: 2,010Expert Adviser
    From my website / Brake Section



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