Fuel Pump Kit

BigSkyBigSky Posts: 626Senior Contributor
Took my 37 coupe out for a drive & noticed as it warmed up & more miles put on her she started missing or cutting out of sorts as I was on the gas with just moderate rpm & moderate gas pedal.   Thus I’m thinking along the lines of condenser or other distributor issue but also looking at the possibility of the fuel pump being cause of my issues.   

With that said, does anyone have a reasonably priced source for a fuel pump kit?  I assume none of the auto parts stores carry them, like NAPA?   I tried calling Dale Cooper & Dave Kostansek but no answer at either.  

Comments

  • onerare39onerare39 Posts: 1,050Expert Adviser, Member
    Vapor Lock?

  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 626Senior Contributor
    I wouldn’t think so as it was in the low 60’s & I don’t have a hood on the coupe yet.  

    I need to replace the in line fuel filter just to be safe.  Which also makes me wonder; in the sediment bowl is there supposed to be a filter like this but with a spring on the bottom?


  • ValVal Posts: 869Member
    Think I saw one on eBay if your pump is a 499.
  • 50C8DAN50C8DAN Posts: 1,961Senior Contributor
    Make sure it is not NOS!  Alcohol will eat them alive.  Ask me how I know!!!!
  • 35 Terraplane35 Terraplane Posts: 287Senior Contributor
    Jeremy Burris has an add in the WTN.  He has kits with modern elastomers or can rebuild it for you.  eight five nine four 2 one 26 pie four
  • ratlee2ratlee2 Posts: 293Expert Adviser
    I have seen the sediment bowl filters with pourous stone with the spring underneath, paper filter with spring, and the newer ones at tractor supply just have a fine mesh metal screen.
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 626Senior Contributor
    With advice from another Hudsonite member I decided to just pull the inline fuel filter (Fram G2) & not replace it.  My friends thought was that having the filter on the entry side to the fuel pump wasn’t good as the pumps aren’t strong enough & I could be starving the engine.  So pulling it out is an easy way to test it. 

    After I pulled the Fram inline filter out I did find a few particles but not many in it.  To my surprise I did find some partials in the sediment bowl right before the carb, that I didn’t expect to find.  So after I cleaned out that sediment bowl I’m gonna run it without any filters for now.  I did also find the gasket I made for the sediment bowl was a bit small on the inside.  So I cut the inner hole larger so I wouldn’t restrict any gas flow into the bowl.  


    It started to rain last night & is planned for all of today, I haven’t been able to test drive it yet to see if those changes helped or not.  

    On to electrical evaluation:
    I pulled the distributor to change the condenser since I can’t get that little screw in otherwise.  While out I looked at the cap & noticed the rotor button looks pitted?  Not sure what to think but I’ve never seen that before!  Any ideas as to what may cause that & if it’s a problem?  I have another cap & can easily change it today.  




  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 3,939Senior Contributor
    On splasher 6 distributors the button in the cap is a solid carbon rod, and the rotor has a leaf spring  contact on top.  You can make a new button by breaking open  an old A battery and trimming the carbon rod to fit in the distributor.  
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 626Senior Contributor
    I checked my new cap on the shelf & it’s definitely a solid rotor button, no spring behind it.  So with what I have for a cap rotor button, is it ultimately bad & should be replaced?
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 626Senior Contributor
    Condenser I replaced today.  Although I’m unsure what the “correct mfd rating” might be.  

    It seems like the condenser is pretty universal (Blue Streak AL-111 or NAPA AL869) as it was recommended for all 212ci engines from what I saw.  
    For the 8cyl I saw it was Blue Streak” AL-111 or  NAPA AL868, and I was told by NAPA a AL869 can be used as 2nd choice.  
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 3,939Senior Contributor
    Should actually be rated ufd (microfads), and the correct rating is within .18 to .22 ufd.  m = Milli (thousands) and u is micro = millionths.   Don't ask me why it is denoted as "u"!
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 626Senior Contributor
    I suppose the only way to determine that would be a call to the manufacturer.  I did a quick search & couldn’t find any specs anywhere.  Have individuals found the recommended condensers aren’t within the range the engines need?
  • Old Fogey UKOld Fogey UK Posts: 353Expert Adviser
    I had a similar problem that I eventually traced to the coil being located too close to the exhaust manifold. Mounting it on the passenger side of the bulkhead up behind the dashboard seems to have cured it - it was only when I got to the third new coil that things clicked with me !  :s
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 626Senior Contributor
    Spent another day on the Hudson, this time I used a timing light, had problems but figured a couple things out. So I’m gonna post this on another thread so the title makes sense....
  • terraplane8terraplane8 Posts: 543Senior Contributor
    BigSky said:
    Spent another day on the Hudson, this time I used a timing light, had problems but figured a couple things out. So I’m gonna post this on another thread so the title makes sense....
    The way the timing marks are difficult to line up accurately by sight I think you're better off using a vacuum gauge for a final timing setting.

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