1947 pickup lower door hinge pin replacement

40indianssgmailcom40indianssgmailcom Posts: 200Senior Contributor
anyone have a simple readily available pin replacement method.  Or what has someone else done to remedy a slightly worn lower hinge?

Comments

  • charles4dcharles4d Posts: 541Expert Adviser
    I think their is a tool to replace the pins in hinges .I read it somewhere  someone eles might know
  • 29sptphaeton29sptphaeton Posts: 280Member
    I’ve seen adds for this tool and a photo. I think the ford vendors have it, and maybe Eastwood Co.
  • charles4dcharles4d Posts: 541Expert Adviser
    I think it was a ford item
  • Uncle JoshUncle Josh Posts: 2,641Senior Contributor
    mine were so bad I sliced the hinge vertically with a cutoff wheel to get the old pin out and replaced the pin with a bolt from the hardware store.
  • 40indianssgmailcom40indianssgmailcom Posts: 200Senior Contributor
    Okay with the pin removal but what to use as a replacement?  A stainless bolt or grade 8 or?
  • barrysweet52barrysweet52 Posts: 504Expert Adviser
    Hole is probably oval so you might need a reamer, then turn up a set of new pins.
  • boothguyboothguy Posts: 110Senior Contributor
    I didn't have any luck with the Ford tool from Bob Drake even with heat
  • 40indianssgmailcom40indianssgmailcom Posts: 200Senior Contributor
    I was hoping for something off the shelf but looks like possibly Bridgeport and lathe to do it correctly.  Oh well it is just time and/or money
  • Ken U-TxKen U-Tx Posts: 3,890Senior Contributor
    On Gary Hayes '41 we used a 40's Ford hinge pin, had to put the pins in a lathe and turn down the splines under the head of the pin until they were about 3/16" long so we could drive it down to top of hinge.....be sure to mask off the painted areas around the pin so when you drive it in with a smaller hammer you dont chip the paint.....Be slow and careful. Ford pin was a bit short....the bottom did go into the lower hole of the hinge, but only part of the way. I found some extended length pins that are for using with hinge mounted mirrors. They are about 2.625" long, think the Ford ones we used were 2.250" long.
    Agree, if you have a mill and lathe, make your own hinge pin pusher tool. The curved extensions at bootm of the front fenders and doors of the 42-47 Hudsons make removing that lower pin a real pain!
  • 40indianssgmailcom40indianssgmailcom Posts: 200Senior Contributor
    Thanks I can check with the vintage ford parts guys for pins.  It's a place to start
  • Courtesy ManCourtesy Man Posts: 156Expert Adviser
    Isnt the problem more on getting the old pins out and needing to ream the hole oversize?  Then machine up pins to fit ? I have struggled trying to remove the doors - hinges- on Hudsons. I am sure if the hinges could go on the bench off the car that would be ideal - is that possible? On a full restoration certainly they must pull the doors off? Could Dr. Doug give some advice. For me I  could not get the hinge screws loose. I would wait on ordering the pins until the old ones are out. I machined up a pin pushing tool like a c-clamp with threaded hole for a screw to push the pin and a hole in the top of the tool to allow pin to move out - did not work. not strong enough and ,not enough clearance to make the tool beefier.
  • 40indianssgmailcom40indianssgmailcom Posts: 200Senior Contributor
    Actually I have had the lower hinges removed from the body.  This made getting the pin out relatively easy.  And yes my query is really about reaming to the proper size and finding or making the pin.  Does one make a brass bushing or just leave steel rod on steel hinge?   I ended up drilling out the screws for some on the lower hinges and cleaned the holes with the proper tap.  The hinge on the body is riveted if I remember correctly and I drilled those out also.  However the next problem is how to reattach the hinge to the body.  The door part is easy with new bolts/screws but I think the hinge to the post can be done with buttonhead type screw or a pan head type and 1/2 thick nylock nut on the interior side of the post.  If I remember correctly the thread sizes are 5/16 by 24tpi.  It would be nice to tap the hinge plate and not use a nut but the existing rivet hole on the door opening is 5/16 and it would need to be drilled to 3/8 and not aesthetically satisfactory to me.  Hope this makes sense to those reading
  • Courtesy ManCourtesy Man Posts: 156Expert Adviser
    Not quite sure if I follow - but I would be happy to help (only cost of materials and shipping). I am a retired machinist with lathes and mills at my home shop here in SLC, UT. I could make a set of pins - to your oversize reamed hole if necessary. Could be steel or bronze if considered best.  After some more advice on this forum we could email. Gert Kristiansen Deseret Chapter.
  • 40indianssgmailcom40indianssgmailcom Posts: 200Senior Contributor
    Appreciate your offer.  Looked at the parts again today and need to consider brass or bronze bushing as possible solution.  The part of hinge attached to the door is not as substantial as the the hinge piece that is attached to the door pillar/post.  May be necessary to modify/strengthen the part on the door also
  • Ken U-TxKen U-Tx Posts: 3,890Senior Contributor
    So the top and bottom holes in the stamped steel part of the hinge that is part of the door are oversize / worn? Maybe carefully weld metal inside the hole using acetylene/ oxygen torch and wire? Or even MIG weld the hole dress it smooth and then redrill the hole to size to match the pin.
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