Removing 46 Oil Check Valve

I am trying to remove and oil check valve so that I can verify it is opening. Looking at the 42-47 mechanical procedure manual, it looks like the entire unit should unscrew from the block. In the manual it mentions a J-1454 tool that is used to remove it. I've tried to unscrew it and it wont budge.

Are there any tricks, or an alternative tool I can use to get that thing off without breaking something? 


  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,058Senior Contributor
    You will have to remove the bottom fitting to give enough room to turn it around as you unscrew it, otherwise the elbow will li9mit against the  engine plate.  Just use a large  adjustable wrench on the body of the valve and unscrew it  anti-clockwise
  • bob wardbob ward Posts: 1,207Senior Contributor
    You are right, its held into the block on a tapered pipe thread. I remember mine was hard to get to move, I think I moved something else out of the way and then I was able to get a pipe wrench or big open end spanner on to the upper part. 
  • longlivelancelonglivelance Posts: 94Member
    edited January 2020
    Thanks all, got it off this morning. Never taken one of these apart, but from the diagram it looks like everything is there.

    I had a couple of questions about it to be sure it is ok before I put it back together.

    1. I was wondering if the pin (#7) in that sprint retainer cup, is supposed to move? I see what looks to be it, but it does not move at all, so not sure. Is that normal?

    2. Should the pressure from the oil just push the valve ball (#4) up, and in turn lift the cup (#5) allowing the oil to pass into the block?

    3. Is there a way to bench test the light terminal (#9) to make sure it is all working before putting it back in?

  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,058Senior Contributor
    Assemble it and check that you have continuity with an ohm meter.   don't try and take the pin out, or the  insulating post.  
  • longlivelancelonglivelance Posts: 94Member
    Thanks Geoff! Just tested it on the bench and saw continuity. Put it back on the truck and put the ignition on. Saw continuity, then started the engine. Continuity stopped. Turned the engine off, and in around 5 minutes, continuity returned.

    Feel a lot better knowing the engine is 100% getting lubrication now.
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,058Senior Contributor
    That sound  normal.   The reason for the long period  before the light comes on again is the ball check that keeps the pressure up in the sender unit.  if the ball was not there  the light would flash on and off when idling.    
  • longlivelancelonglivelance Posts: 94Member
    Good to know. I was happy to take it apart and see how simple it was, and exactly how it works. Thanks everyone for the guidance! Glad to have gotten this taken care of.

    Now onto the next adventure....brakes.
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