1928 Hudson Doors of Mystery

Out of the four doors, none of them will crank up because of rusty mechanisms. It is not apparent to me how to get the winder out from its captive inner panel hole with the glass down. And there are no instructions that I can find because no one has these kind of mechanisms in current cars. I'm hoping that another old car owner can tell me how to proceed. For starters, I squirted a lot of PB Blaster on the available parts, but I suspect there is a rusty roller in a track. My goals are to replace the edge glides, the rubber window seal, and get the mechanism to work before I smash the darn thing to pieces in a fit. I'm really a patient person, but the singular arm angling downward from the center of the large gear will not move on the track(?), so of course nothing will crank up even with the door turned upside down. So far this has been a challenge to fingers. Light does not help, neither do mirrors. But I know that someone out there has the secret slight-of-hand answer to the Doors of Mystery. Oh, I have to get the locks out to free them while I'm tearing everything apart.

Advice, preferably with pictures?


  • AnnaCarinAnnaCarin Posts: 33Member
    For lack of other replies, here's my two cents.
    A couple of Hudson's 1926 patents show a bit of the mechanism, and both patent texts also describe the order of assembly. The patents are US1705741 and US1732291 (click for PDFs - unfortunately the latter patent is missing the first page of drawings). If you compare your doors to the drawings and descriptions, hopefully they'll provide some clues.

  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 3,677Senior Contributor
    If you remove the screws holding the mechanism into the door inner frame you should be able to  move the glass up far enough with your fingers, rotating the mechanism in the process.   Once the glass is high enough you can then  poke the mechanism inwards into the recess.   Remove the top frame of the door (three screws) and lift the glass right out the top.   Once you have the glass up far enough you should be able to wiggle the  end of the arm out of the  hole in the end of the bottom  slot and remove the winder mechanism.    good luck.
  • strangeplantstrangeplant Posts: 40Member
    Mechanism was rusty, so wouldn't turn to lift it up. Took off the top piece, then turned the door upside down, sprayed PB Blaster and waited. DON'T TAKE OUT THE SCREWS YET. Then juggled the crank back and forth while pushing the arm over and got the window extended. Only a 1/4" of the clip showed. Removed the screws holding the mechanism and pried with a flat blade screwdriver to get the glass extended the rest of the way. Unhooked the roller and everything else came apart easily.

    The pinion on the shaft is a loose fit allowing it to jamb somehow so the window doesn't move unless you turn the crank. Clever, but it's all inside a riveted case. Has anyone ever seen the insides with a picture? I would like too know how it works but am not going to take mine apart.
  • strangeplantstrangeplant Posts: 40Member
    Oh, forgot to say that I had to rip out the glide run, the wool felt and the hardened fractured and misshapen pieces before the glass would move. This let me move the glass side to side a little and free up enough rust that the roller would move on the track.
  • strangeplantstrangeplant Posts: 40Member
    Now that I'm cutting off the bottom exterior door panel, I see that there is an inner wall, with holes, that traps a thick sheet(s) of felted tarred paper. Slightly flammable, makes a char and smokes a lot when heated. I'm guessing that this was supposed to be sound deadening insulation? Thermal insulation? Should I add more while I'm in there?

    There is provision for a rubber lower rain seal on outside of the window glass held by a sheet metal strip and three sheet metal screws. But not the inside?

    Looks like water at the lower glass corners will funnel into the inside of the door because the rubber cann't dovetail into the channel glide. There are no drain holes in the door that I can see, so water could build up. This doesn't seem right.
  • AnnaCarinAnnaCarin Posts: 33Member
    The paper could be the sound deadening material described in patent US1827743 -
    "All-metal automobile bodies, such as are now quite extensively used, while having distinct advantages from the standpoint of strength, durability, and economy of production over the older types of wooden and composite bodies, have been found to be objectionably noisy in use, due, in part at least, to the resonance of the exterior paneling which is usually curved in configuration corresponding with the desired curved lines of the body. This trouble, while present to a certain extent throughout the body, is particularly noticeable in the case of the doors which, when closed suddenly, give forth an offensive metallic ring.
    [...] the invention in its broader aspect consists in applying a non-metallic backing to the sheet metal panels to deaden their resonance and thereby prevent the metallic noises characteristic of bodies of this character. In its preferred form the invention consists in the employment of a sheet of non-metallic material overlying the inner face of the outer panel, together with means for holding said sheet in engagement with the panel substantially throughout its area."
    The sound deadening material is # 21 in the pics, see link above for the full details.

  • strangeplantstrangeplant Posts: 40Member
    The second image shows what the inside looks like before the outer skin is cut and removed. The tarred felt shows through the lightening hole in the first inner door panel. The felt is impossible to replace. The door has four metal layers in places shown in the first image.I suspect the little mice that lived under the protective car wrap trimmed the felt, harvesting to stuff inside my engine.
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