HEAD TORQUING ADVICE NARROW BLOCK 262

It's been a while everyone. I'm getting ready to seal up a 50 262, and I have head gaskets, new grade 8 bolts, and the threads are chased and cleaned. Here's my questions.... 

1) I am using a NOS aluminum head that I got many years ago. It was checked, and a surface cut was applied, the machine shop was a competent one, and I was told it was true, and needed nothing to clean it up. 

should I be concerned about using this head? I typically like to use the copper spray, and I know the torque sequence, and understand the importance of following it, as well as checking it after running it, etc... I'm good on that, but just wanting to make sure that no one is going to say "stay away" I have several cast heads I could use, but honestly, I really wanted the cool factor of the aluminum head, and of course I know this means I will have to start this thing and get it to operating temperature once a week, moving forward. 

2) I know i'm supposed to coat some or all of the bolts with RTV, just not sure if it is in fact some or all of them, to prevent coolant leakage. I cannot find the shop manuals, and instead of searching high and low, figured I'd ask the group. I don't want a fountain, lol... 

3) I'm going to start out using Autolite 216's. gapped to the proper spec. anyone have other recommendations? at this point, I want to get it started, running and at some point, I will pull plugs and see what they look like. Don't worry, I will also use anti seize on the threads, I don't want any issues with plugs and the aluminum head. 

well, that's all right now. i think i got a few easy questions here, It's been fun working on the hudson again, I am hoping to get it running and driving and stopping yet this year, take it one step at a time. 

Comments

  • You might want to use thread sealer instead of RTV on the bolt threads. You can tell which bolts go into water by poking a screwdriver into the bolt holes...if it goes in more than an inch, you're in the water jacket.




  • Ol racer
    Ol racer Senior Contributor
    edited July 2019


    FYI

    If this helps I have Aluminum Heads on all of my street Hudson's even one with a large overbore and had no problem. I usually use Studs with grade 8 washers, but have a couple motors with Bolts. Everyone probably has their own method but here is what I do...

    Ensure head has no erosion around the water holes and head is straight. I use copper Spray on both sides then hang awhile until getS Tacky.( I spray a couple of times then let hang again). I ensure the block surface is clean by using Carb or Parts cleaner, then ensure the bolt threads & holes are clean. I coat all the bolts with blacK Permatex from a Jar. Don't use RTV.

     I put chassis Lube under each bolt head so I get more true torque with little friction and follow the 'Torque Pattern'. I retorque head a couple times after the Hot/Cold heat cycles.

    Regarding Sparkplugs, I use NGK or Autolite with never seize with factory Gap setting. If your head was only slightly milled with a stock cam shouldn't have a problem. If a Gap should close just go to a shorter Reach plug. I wouldn't remove them if running ok.