Hudson Hornet - Need Info on the brass insert in the water pump port

HoustonHudsonHornet

Does anyone know what the brass is that is in the block inside the water port behind the water pump?  Whatever it is appears to be pretty torn up on mine.  I reached in with some pliers and it is in there pretty solid, but it looks like someone really smashed/tore it up at some point.

I've never ran across anything like it before.  Should it come out?  Is there something wrong with my block?  I'm still building the cooling system, so I can't tell yet if the water flows through the block or not.  I'm just hoping I don't need to completely tear the engine down to figure it out and fix it.

Thanks,
Ryan

ratlee2

It is suppose to be there.  It is a distribution tube to direct flow within the block.

ratlee2

here is an article that cover the distribution tube.

HoustonHudsonHornet

ratlee2,

THANK YOU! 

I have been scratching my head all weekend trying to figure out what that is and how to "fix" it.  That is an awesome write up, too.  It may be a common thing, but this is the first time I've seen something like this in an engine block (I've mainly rebuilt 70's and newer engines).

I guess that means the engine is coming out sooner rather than later.  I was hoping to get it running as is and then pull it later for some engine bay clean up.

Thanks again!
Ryan

HoustonHudsonHornet

PS, can the cooling system function properly without this tube or is there a source for a replacement?  As I said, it is pretty mangled, and that tab mentioned in the write up is no longer there.  

HoustonHudsonHornet

Ken,

Glad I haven't gone too much further on it!  I have been contemplating pulling the engine to clean up the years of gunk and dirt/dust in the engine bay.  Guess this forces my hand.  It'll give me a good chance to check out the clutch and such as well.

I'll shoot you a private message about the tube.  If I can get one, that would be a lifesaver.

Thanks,
Ryan

HoustonHudsonHornet

Just in case anyone runs across this later, I was finally able to get my tube out.  I used vice grips attached to a slide hammer.  It took some finesse to get the right amount of force.  At first I was too forceful and actually tore some more pieces off.  Once I got it dialed in, I was about to slowly get it out.  It's a mess, but that's a story for another day!

ratlee2

If you plan to run it without rebuilding it.  You can knock out the three 2" core plugs on the driver's side of the block, remove the drain plug and flush the block out with a garden hose.  I was able to remove 3" of sediment from mine and it ran cool until I eventually got around to rebuilding it.

54coupe

When I do a rebuild, I make a cover for where the water pump bolts up, and fill the bare block with muriatic acid, then flush with baking soda to neutralize. Looks like new cast iron when done

HoustonHudsonHornet

Thanks!  I was actually looking up good ways to flush the block.  Mine definitely has a large amount of rust and crud built up.

Kdancy

54coupe said:

When I do a rebuild, I make a cover for where the water pump bolts up, and fill the bare block with muriatic acid, then flush with baking soda to neutralize. Looks like new cast iron when done

Interesting, how long do you let it set?

54coupe

Kdancy said:

54coupe said:

When I do a rebuild, I make a cover for where the water pump bolts up, and fill the bare block with muriatic acid, then flush with baking soda to neutralize. Looks like new cast iron when done

Interesting, how long do you let it set?

About an hour.

WABOOM

Straight muriatic acid?

54coupe

WABOOM said:

Straight muriatic acid?

Yes.

cheyenne7271

I have a few junk blocks and can check to see if I have a hood one if you need it, lemme know

ajet

Straight muriatic acid worked well for cleaning the water passages in  my inverted cyl head ... I would recommend soaking outside as everything metal within several feet rusted over night !

stevepet

I think I saw one on ebay recently