What’s the Trick to Removing an Oil Pan?

BigSkyBigSky Posts: 995Senior Contributor
in HUDSON
i am about ready to pull the oil pan from my 212ci 6 cylinder & was wondering what others have done to not wear oil or spill a bunch of it from the splasher tray?   I’ve already drained the oil pan, so it’s just what’s left in the dipper trays.  I was thinking of just using a floor jack underneath it but I figure someone’s got a good idea already tried & true!

Comments

  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 4,424Senior Contributor
    Remove all bolts except for the four corner ones.  Then loosen  these down so they have just a few threads left in, and  get a  knife in and separate the  sump and trough assembly from the crankcase all round and let it rest on to the four bolts.  Then  it is easiest to have an assistant help you, or use a jack, and hold the sump up while you remove the last four bolts and gently lower it to the floor.   Good luck.   
    If you're stuck in a hole, stop digging.
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 995Senior Contributor
    Perfect!  Although while I missed your reply I did learn the hard way, making a mess on the floor.  

    In the beginning it was going just just like you described, 4 bolts remained & were loosened & the pan was coming down with the bolts being loosened.  I had the jack hold the pan in place nicely & removed the rest of the bolts & slowly lowered the jack then slid it out from underneath the car.  



    Although something was missing.... oh crap the dipper trough was still stuck to the block.  I quickly cut a piece of cardboard, grabbed my scraper & then shoved the jack back underneath.  Bang!  I herd it fall down on the jack.  I was about 20 seconds from not making a huge mess.  

    The good news: I won’t soon forget to make sure the upper trough comes down with the pan!  
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 995Senior Contributor
    Could I get a side of Sludge with that oil change?

     https://youtu.be/IYL1cG2_T2g
  • 5433HET5433HET Posts: 99Expert Adviser
    Yep, I was successful in removal,  and now have the pans cleaned and ready. I will install 4 studs at the corners to help align it all. Any other tips for reassembly? What gasket cement? Add oil for the trays via the valve area I assume. Hope you dont mind me butting in here,Big Sky! 
  • 33ET8conv33ET8conv Posts: 52Member
    I am also interested in this procedure, what oil are you using? 
  • barrysweet52barrysweet52 Posts: 638Expert Adviser
    You could use very long bolts in the 4 corners to start off (taking off and putting on) to help with the weight and to align the tubes. 
  • 33kc198933kc1989 Posts: 407Senior Contributor
    Yes ^^^^^^
  • 33ET8conv33ET8conv Posts: 52Member
    I successfully cleaned, checked, and replaced the pans on my '32, using the 4 stud method. Filled the upper trays and used a Jack to guide it all in place.
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 995Senior Contributor
    Has anyone been successful cleaning out the Sludge from inside this raised area?  If so how?   I hate to put it back together not having cleaned that area as well.  It’s the circled in yellow raised area.  
  • 33ET8conv33ET8conv Posts: 52Member
    I used an aerosol brakleen with the straw attachment,  upside down,repeat. About as good as you're going to get without cutting it open.
  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 995Senior Contributor
    Holy Sludge Batman!  

    33ET8conv, I took your advice & started in on the area I described earlier with the brakleen as you’d done.   It looked like a playdo mold as the sludge oozed out in the shape of the bottom hole.  What nasty stuff that is & doesn’t come off the hands too readily.  

    After a pair of rubber gloves I went back to work on it but the brakleen was appearing to act more as a compressed air tool as the chemical had little if any effect on the sludge.   Thus I next used compressed air with my air compressor air blow off tool.  It was almost a perfect fit to the middle hole & leaving the bottom hole open I blew out a great deal more sludge.  My plan is to leave the pan on its side & hope it will continue to flow out the gap at the very end over the next 10 days I’m away from this project. 

    Question:  has anyone come up with any other ideas or chemicals to break down the sludge?


  • KdancyKdancy Posts: 2,518Senior Contributor
    Holy cow batman!
    53 Super Wasp Coupe ready for restoration
    53 Studebaker Coupe Custom
    64 Champ pickup
    Wellborn, Fl
  • HoustonHudsonHornetHoustonHudsonHornet Posts: 29Member
    I wonder if a good soaking in diesel would break that down any.  If only enough to wash it out easier, but maybe to the point of making it flow out.  I've used it to soak quite a few things...but who knows with that slurry.
  • 33ET8conv33ET8conv Posts: 52Member
    Mine didn't appear to have much sludge at all in those pockets. Try soaking it upside down in citrus degreaser.
     How are the trays replenished with oil?
  • terraplane8terraplane8 Posts: 583Senior Contributor
    I wonder if this is bearing material from wear over the decades, looks a similar colour?
    1933 Essex Terraplane Eight 1936 Terraplane 1936 Hudson Eight
  • barrysweet52barrysweet52 Posts: 638Expert Adviser
    A very good question. You could take it to a engine repair shop and get them to put it in their big tanks, depending on what solvents they use. Some solvents used are bad for the white metal bearings so possibly also bad for solder. Good there is a large hole in the middle. Consider making welding a long copper pipe on the end of your air comp kero gun or use a long plastic hose to reach the inside ends. You will have the cleanest sump in the USA. 
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