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I know someone is going to scream "NOW YOUR DRUM ISN'T CENTERED"......which is why you do the rivets one at a time. Works like a charm.
So what would one do if a previous owner drilled out all the
rivets (and left them out) to do the brake work? I have not yet driven the car
so I do not how the brakes will feel driving but I have a nice pedal feel
sitting still. As a side note the P/O worked at a tire and brake shop and put
in all new shoes, turned the drums, new
rubber hoses, wheel and master cyl.
RG53Hornet. I think if I ever ran into this (which I don't think will ever happen) I'd install wheel studs as I have done and I wouldn't worry about it. There is a small boss on the hub to center the drum and once you pull the wheel nuts up tight you have the same exact assembly as almost every other automobile running around with rear drum brakes. The wheel cylinder will push the brakes out until they contact the drum....the drum is the stop....it'll get there. I assume you've seen this situation. If so, someone must not have had a hub puller or didn't know any other way to get to the brakes. If you install wheel studs from the back side of the hub you no longer need the locating pin anyway....you have 5 locating pins.
RG53Hornet. At the risk of drawing more flack from the it'll never work crowd I actually used 7/16 studs and the knurling bit right into the 1/2" threads in the hub. I've made two trips to California and back from Ohio in my truck and the wheels didn't fly off. The second trip was in the 70mph range as my truck has a 262 and I installed a dana diff with 3.54 gears before driving to San Diego last year. You can't beat this set up for brake access and it saves the threads on the end of the axle. I'm sure in my lifetime I'll never have the hubs off again. When I installed the diff the gears, bearing, seals, etc were all new so I'm set for life.....and when I want to change the brakes, no problem. Be careful when buying the studs, the do come with different knurl sizes. If you have the hub off take it to a local parts store or take a set of calipers and measure the inside threaded portion and get on summit racing and look for studs. They usually list the knurl diameter. Get it a bit bigger than the inside dia. on the threads so it can get a bite.