Can't get the head off !

1953 Hudson 308 with studs and an aluminum head.
All the nuts are off, sprayed all the studs, head won't move...

Any suggestions ?


The Old Timer


  • Jon BJon B Posts: 6,739
    Did you try just hitting the starter?  The compression strokes might do it for you...
  • SuperDaveSuperDave Posts: 3,348
    Most of the resistance is from the corrosion on the studs and holes. use plenty of penetrating oi l(not WD-40)  A method I have had to use removing a head from a Model A Ford...remove the plugs and stuff rope into  the cylinders that are at the bottom of the stroke. hit the starter.. 
    If the engine is out of the car? Ouch! but can still be done by mounting a starter.
  • GlowplugGlowplug Posts: 1,564
    Take two old spakplugs and remove glass.  Weld eye bolts to the remaining part of the spark plug. Using the eye bolts hook a chain to them and use an engine hoist to remove the head.  Good Luc
  • I did run the starter a bit... but... it didn't move it so you'd notice...
    Thought about putting a shot of oil in each cyl and then cranking it some more...
    With the head gasket now loose, a lot of the squeeze goes into the next cyl...
  • GeoffGeoff Posts: 3,483
    Vinegar will help dissolve the oxide that is built up around the  studs.
  • I had my head stuck on the center bolt after the screwhead snapped off.  No amount of prying anywhere would budge it.  Luckily, I could get a fairly large pulley puller to span the head and push on the broken bolt. Thats the only way it would come off.  You might try that on the 3 sets of 'lugs' at the front, middle, and back of the head.
  • KdancyKdancy Posts: 2,229
    Try heating the head with air type heater, do this thoroughly and then spray kano kroil on each bolt and let soak. Then give Dave's method a shot.
  • Back in the day the Navy came up with a penetrating oil called krooll. Not sure if I'm spelling it right. I have found it online. It penetrates down Less Than 3 tenths of a micron. It is the very best stuff out there. It's not too expensive. Weave unstuck a lot of Hudson motors with it. Including stuck heads with studs. Look it up and good luck.
  • Got the head off... took all the studs out first... most came out by jamming 2 nuts together...  the last bit had to come out w a concentric stud remover and a 3' pipe on the breaker bar... they all came out but 6 are no good now...

    Anyone have a line on 6 replacement 1/2"  x  3-3/4" studs ???

    Much appreciate the help.

  • Check this thread for head BOLTS:

    Grade 8 and 5 threaded studs are available from McMaster (among others) - in 3.5" and 4" lengths. 
  • There is a tool that is like a hole saw that goes over the stud and reams the head out to free it from the stud,  do not know where you can find one, or how good the practice is to use it, If you are not going to use the head over, a no brainer.  The penetrating oil is  "Kroil"  you can get it online, I don't think that you can buy it in a store.
  • Ol racerOl racer Posts: 2,401
    Another source for Studs is Look up size then go to local Auto Store to order them. (Any Auto Store that carrys Dorman)
  • Ken U-TxKen U-Tx Posts: 3,566
    ARP has these grade 8 studs also, with an Allen wrench socket on the top to make installation easier. don't remember the ARP part # off the top of my head. I had bought the Dorman ones years ago.

  • HI ALL:
    Just to let you know... we prevailed, took most of the studs out by double nut method, all but 6. The rest came out with a concentric stud remover and on a couple a 3' piece of pipe on the big ratchet...  Anyway...  all is good, the head went to the machine shop for a trim, went back on with big thick grade 8 flat washers and 1/2" High nuts to clamp everything down...
    Today it runs better than we've heard it before...
    ARP does have 1/2" studs that will suffice if needed.

    IT CAN BE DONE !!!

    Also used a modern day type of thermostat and put a plug in the bypass part of the thermostat neck... drilled a 1/8" hole to allow for movement.

    Make it a great day.

    The Old Timer
  • I have not tried to remove my aluminum head yet, and I am expecting the same problems but does anyone have remedy to prevent this from happening again with the new studs? Is there a protective coating that would prevent the corrosion that glues the head to the studs?
  • My dad was a mechanic in a Hudson dealership in Dayton Ohio and he has a great story about an 8 cylinder Hudson with a stuck head.  The guy working on it tried everything know to them in the day and it wouldn't budge.  Ended up breaking it apart a piece at a time with a chisel.  I can't imagine how painful that would have been. 
  • Ken U-TxKen U-Tx Posts: 3,566
    I have not tried to remove my aluminum head yet, and I am expecting the same problems but does anyone have remedy to prevent this from happening again with the new studs? Is there a protective coating that would prevent the corrosion that glues the head to the studs?
    Yes, first, before putting the studs into the block, coat the threads with Teflon thread sealant from Permatex, then coat the shanks with anti-seize compound. Keeping coolant from seeping up the studs is the first defense, and then anti-seize on the shanks is the second line of defense from galvanic corrosion between the aluminum and iron/steel.
  • TheOldTimerTheOldTimer Posts: 10

    It's all back together and runs real good but... the spark plugs are letting little compression by... tried tightening them up a tad and even changed them to a new set but when the engine comes up to temperature... they leak.
    Can't tighten them too much with the aluminium head...
    Any thoughts???
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