For Uncle Josh

Val

Uncle Josh you said in the 37 Terraplane Oil post that you use 15W 40 in all your splashers. Can you please tell me why and is it better than the SAE 30   

lostmind

I'll not speak for Uncle Josh , but I got the answer to that question once before.

" ever try to splash cold molasses"?

Val

Lostmind, good point so maybe 10W40?  

lostmind

I used 10w-30 in my Terraplane and '46 212"

10w-40 should be fine.


Straight 30 and 40 doesn't splash well when cold.


Oil is different today then when those engines were new. Better protection no matter what you use now.

Val

For over night an oil pan heater that is magnetic is used so cold starts aren't an issue.    

Geoff

The last thing a vintage engine needs is vintage oil.   use a modern multigrade.

Lance

Geoff, I don't mean to be a smart a** but where would you get vintage oil anyway? If you mean straight 30 wt.  it's about impossible to get around here anyway.

Jon B

It isn't easily found but Advance Auto (for one) lists it as available on its website.  You would probably have to order a case of it.



Some people who purchase cars whose engines have obviously not been overhauled in years, prefer non-detergent oils because they fear that the introduction of a detergent oil will loose all the built-up sludge in the engine, and thus damage the bearings.

However, once an engine is "new" with rebuilt parts (or thoroughly cleansed of its old sludge), there's no more gunk to be unloosened.  And today's multigrade, detergent oils should be much better, all things considered, than the original type of oil that was the only one available when these cars were new.  I have been running multi-grade in my '37 for years.  (Actually, I run a multigrade with ZDDP in it, but that's a whole 'nuther story....)

Val

So it seems that most recommend modern multi viscosity oil. So to my original question about 15W40. Why that one over say a 10W40 or 10W30 or even 20W50? I thought 15W was a diesel oil? 

Geoff

L:ancem, you would be surprised the length some people go to, to ensure their engine oil is non detergent, so ensuring g a build up of sludge and carbon!

ESSX28-1

I've run 15W40 for the last few years in my 28 Essex engine - about 15,000
(trouble free) miles. 20W50 oils is too heavy & doesn't flow into the gauze box box (where the oil pump pickup is) quickly enough & you can start pumping aerated or no oil into the troughs with disastrous effect.  I learnt the obvious way!!

Uncle Josh

The last few quarts of 'vintage' oil I saw around here is when I was rebuilding Bill (William P.) Gates' 254 for his 40 Country Club.  He said the oil was new 25 years ago, and the engine hadn't been run since.  I pulled the drain plug and it wouldn't even run out.  Pulled the pans and it was the consistency of grape jelly.  Good thing it was stuck and wouldn't turn.  Also the broken lifter, missing cam lobe, broken tap in the water jacket etc wouldn't have helped.  She's running fine now, with 15-40 oil

iceblade10

Val said:

So it seems that most recommend modern multi viscosity oil. So to my original question about 15W40. Why that one over say a 10W40 or 10W30 or even 20W50? I thought 15W was a diesel oil? 

Val, I use Shell Rotella 15W40 with a ZDDP additive.  This is what my uncle used when he had the car, and I've continued the tradition.  Yes, it is diesel oil... so why use it?  The answer is ZINC.  Most regular motor oils were reformulated to remove much of the zinc, which is great for protecting these old engines.  Modern engines don't really need the zinc, which is why it was removed, I guess.  However, this particular diesel oil still has plenty of zinc in it, which is why people use it in many antique cars, at least to my understanding.  Throw in a ZDDP zinc additive for a couple of bucks, and it should be all the protection you'll ever need.  Probably way better than the oil that was originally in these cars.

Val

Thanks iceblade 10 for the info. I currently use formula Shell SAE 30, but will at next oil change make the change. Being I haven't used 30 for all that long it shouldn't make a difference.

Geoff

The main reason  zinc is incorporated in to engine oil is for lubrication of the cams and lifters, and this is the most critical wear point in Hudson-built splash fed engines.  

Val

Ok with that as I had said in the previous post I will use that at next oil change. Right now I have added Lucas oil additive to the 30W for extra protection. But 15W40 it will be.    

ernie28

I use Penrite HPR30 which is a top quality multi grade 20W60. Both the 28 Essex and 50 Hudson get it and both since full engine rebuilds. Never had a problem over 1000s of miles. The engine in the other 28 Essex I had was in good order so a good clean of the sump and this was also then using that oil.
I would rather pay more for quality oil than have an unnecessary engine failure.
Happy motoring.