'49 Nailhead Hudson



  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member

  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member
    themoose on HAMB has worked his magic with Photoshop dealing to the Hudson.

    50 Buick grille, nosed, shaved, louvers, side pipes, tinted glass, 57 wheel covers and white walls then on top of that a scalloped paint job.
  • triman62triman62 Posts: 214Member
    Looks cool, like the scallops.
  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member
    Have not updated this for ages. So here is a bit of a ramble / catch up as to what has been happening. So this will be a bit of a long post with a spam load of pics.

    Wirewheeling like a possessed Tasmanian devil. Scrapped of the junk and old paint getting everything back to bare metal. Talking underside of the car, inner guards/panels, front guards, rad support etc. Still got more to do like the front end and other bits. I guess we didnt really need to go all the way back to shiny metal but I like to know whats what and how it all is looking under all the ancient gunk.
    Then went over and rust killed/converted it all with Brunox.

    great stuff that turns the rust a purple black.

    Found a local chap Noel the slinky man who has a big ass sand blaster they use for trucks etc. For a 24 pack of cool beers he was happy enough to do a bit of blasting for us. no flat panel stuff just the hard to wire wheel bits or sturdy bits like the rad support. Did a great job.

    Whitewalls arrived. BFG Silvertown 235/70/ r15.

    Got some custom steelies made up from Elite Wheels in Christchurch. Fraser there did a bang on job with some great looking welds. 15inch rims. 6" wide front, 7" at the back. centers are 4" from the back.
    You wont see the backs due to the car being so low and has skirts. The front will have wheel covers that will hide the full steel rim.  Have painted them up using Red Caliper paint. I figure the stuff is made to be resistant to road grime, brake dust, heat and what ever other stress calipers get so should be fine for wheels. The red was a bit more orange than I would of liked but yeah no matter wont see them. Got chrome valve stems on the way.

    Will edit the post later with a pic of the rims painted. But im sure you can all figure out what a red painted steel rim looks like.

    Assembled the rear end.
    It had been mocked up for testing so pulled the axles etc and got it all together.
    The whole rear came from Moser engineering. Top crew if you ask me. Support was great. Welds and quality of material is top shelf.
    Kit included:
    • Bare 9" Ford Housing (54.7” AF to AF)
    • Moser Axles w/Bearing Pkg 5X4 ½ With Screw in studs
    • Moser Performance Nodular Case
    • Trac Loc Posi 31 spline
    • Nodular Pro/Street Support
    • Setup Kit
    • 1350 Pinion Yoke-steel
    • P/S Gear - 3.50
    • Wilwood Pro/Street 12.19" 4 pot disks with internal Park brake.
    • Fill & Drain Plug. Screw in breather.
    • Lokar E-Brake Cable kit & Braided Caliper Hoses
    Further info on Moser custom Centers/pumpkins.
    Further info on Moser custom 9" housing and axles package.
    Further info on Wilwood brake package.

    Throwing it altogether was easy enough even though we couldn't find the instructions. Have since downloaded them from Moser just so I have the torque settings and will go back and tighten everything up next time im out there.

  • bent metalbent metal Posts: 1,560Senior Contributor

    Great work!  Keep the pictures coming.  :)

  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member
    edited March 2018
    Haven't really updated this that much this month so thought I would jump on and fire up my normal belch of images etc. (yip belch, im using the classy language today boss)

    Started off with a pretty good local car show for charity (Hospice) that spanned across St Paddys weekend. Timaru's Rock n Hop. Friday had a street cruise and the turn out was good. Being St Paddys Friday the place was packed with people. Check out that Kreepy ride at 2:03 and 3:03   \m/(-.-)\,,/ cam whore. You yanks might like a look at some of the RH Drive Brit and Aussie cars.

    Saturday had about a thousand cars show. Open to all.

    Need to do the Kingpins on the Buick so may be the last show for a bit. Kinda thinking I may rebuild the whole front steering as its a bit lose. Need to get under there and take a look. /procrastination active.

    Now I have my wheels and tires all painted up and together I have started thinking of wheel covers. Wont see the rear wheels due to the Hudsons skirts and height so I figure no point wasteing wedge on anything back there. Up front its a different matter. Have some 15" Moonies but they are dull and a bit boring for my taste and plans. So HubcapMike.com sorted us out with some 57 Cadillac  wheel covers. Big shiny buggers that cover the whole rim not even leaving a millimeter of paint showing. Popular with custom cars overseas but I hardly ever see them at a car show. None at the show above.
    They came minus a center cap. Fine with me as I wouldn't of wanted the old Caddy logo. This leaves me with a few options. Bullet in the middle like most people use or try and change it up a bit.
    Off to summit and I ordered in some Dodge Lancer (59?)centers. They had two types listed with the same description and pics but one at like $60SUD and another at $10USD per cap just different part numbers. Support told me they are identical. So ordered the cheapies. Arrived and turned out to be the center logo area cover for the Lancer caps. Summit told me to keep them and sent over two of the more expensive ones for free to NZ. ^^ Thanks Summit.
    God am i really talking so much about wheel covers o.0'
    So long story short. I got the dremel out and massaged the lancers to fit the Caddys.
    Unsure if i like the bullets or lancer centers more. Lancer looks over the top by its self but once on a wheel it balances way better.
    Your thoughts, ideas and suggestions are welcome.

    I know I should of taken the pics on the wheels with the whitewalls. The Lancers give me that "Greese" Scorpions vibe and those dudes I always thought where way cooler than the other goodie two shoe sing along bunch.

    So moving along!
    Out to the Hudson we plugged up the old factory drain holes in the floor. Simple job when you got the right kit. Plasma cutter to cut the disks. Lathe to make up/adjust some dies. Hydraulic press to quickly press the disks into nice little flat bottomed bowls to fit int he holes. Glue em in place and done. Now if we can pop them out if ever the need arises.

    Flockie then moved in and fixed up the few rust holes.  Took him about an hour to cut it out and weld in a few plates then grind it all off whilst tapping away with the hammer. And that was most of the rust done in the car, one other spot has been spotted that we will get to at a latter date. Unbelievably I missed getting a photo of this. I know I seem to take a bizzillion photos of everything under the sun and I somehow missed getting a few snaps. But im sure you have all delt to rust and can guess the scope of things due to how fast Flockie delt to them.

    Love of my life then donned the white ninja suit/painters overalls. Restrained my self here from calling them overies like I normally call overalls due to a chick being in them got to be all politically correct and all right... anywho she then proceed to sling some black etch primer under the car. First time she has shot paint with a gun and I personally think she did bloody good. Gave it three coats and tarted up the diffs pumpkin as well. Once that has had time to harden up all good she will be back under there to lay down the Lizard skin.

    And a quick before/after of the underside.

    Now whilst she was busy under there shooting it the old school way/in the shed I helped Flockie put the body on the chassis of the coup he has been working on. Was a heck of an unsafe mess underneath and he has done a stella job that not only is stronger but looks bloody good as well.

    And body on.

  • bluenashbluenash Posts: 34Member
    Looking cooler than a nudie at high school. Hoping to see it thru.
  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member
    bluenash said:
    Looking cooler than a nudie at high school. Hoping to see it thru.
    looking at nudies is rather fun to :love:
  • bent metalbent metal Posts: 1,560Senior Contributor
    Nice build!  :)
  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member
    Alex a top guy from one of the schools I look after got me sorted on the blast cabinet and over the Easter period we went to town cleaning up some small parts and other bits with odd angles etc that would make wire wheeling a pain in the butt.
    Just has glass media but it did the job.

    Here is a few quick pics of just the hood latch.

    And as I have mentioned before my bird has been right beside me through this build learning the in's and outs of cars and what makes em tick. So its only right she gets dusty blasting.

  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member
    edited April 2018

    Im a creature of comfort I have came to realize as I grow older and my waste band wider. So it goes without saying that I want a ride that is quiet enough to think and warm enough to have my gal showing off her legs in a short skirt next to me on the bench seat.

    Well quiet when I want it to be/ side pipes are capped.

    To help achieve this level of sloth I chose “Lizard Skin” for my heat and sound deadening. Inside and out. Part of the attraction admittedly is the fact its so bloody easy to apply, cleanup and will go anywhere you can spray it even under the dash with its 90′ nozzle.

    Write ups of the stuff all sounded promising. The ceramic heat one  has a video of a hot plate. Half coated in LS and the other untreated. ice on either side with the treated side not melting at all.

    Anyway to cut to the point we sprayed the under side first with the sound deadening Lizard Skin. Has a special gun with a large nozzel and sprays about a softball sized pattern. Layed a few coats of this down the first day with cleanup being simple as a wash n wipe down with water.

    Next day went in with the ceramic heat coating and again it splatted on nice and easy.

    You can find out more about the stuff if you are interested here.

    Went in and hooked up the diff and chucked in the bags front and back.

    With that done we threw on the Fuel, Brake and Air Lines. Bolted down with Rubber insulated P clamps every 300mm.

    Currently trying to figure out what to do for drive shaft.Thinking two piece. front section fixed. Then D shaped bearing and the second piece sliding to allow for the diff travel as it raises and lowers from the bags.

    Also working out where we will run the exhaust. Looking at 2.25″ pipe. more on that latter though unless anyone has some insight.

  • rambos_riderambos_ride Posts: 3,186Senior Contributor
    edited April 2018
    Nice work! Keep it up!

    I got my engine/trans/driveline from a 75GM pickup


    I re-used the orginal hudson mounting brackets, just cut out and repositioned the bearing mount. [NOTE: the hudson brackets are C-channel... I boxed them in to handle more torque]

     I did grind about 1/8" from the top of the center carrier housing so it wouldn't hit the floorboard.

    The bigger diameter driveshaft, and center carrier position meant having to notch out the rear crossmember.

    I welded in a stiffner (2nd pic..) and plan to fishplate it on both sides too..just to make sure!

    I prefer to keep everything tucked up so this fits pretty good without a "ton" of modifications.

  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member
    had been over your threads many times before starting the cutting. Along with others who used caddys and 700R4 trans etc.
    Hopeing not to cut up that main cross member and notch it but have not ruled it out as yet.

    Trying to figure out what to do for a driveshaft is starting to bleeping annoy me. a new custom one costs stupid money. and with no pick a part around me its hard to just go junk yard shopping.

    Its one of those things I never really have given much thought to. Kinda take it for granted right.

    So im after info and feedback from any and all about getting a driveshaft out of some donnor car or truck.

    Basic idea is a two piece setup. Front being fixed. Then the back being sliding as the diff will have 6 inch or so travel due to the airbags

    We are not dealing with huge HP. Max I guess is 400HP.

    Had thought a 4WD setup maybe. But everything else in the car is new and the missus is now kinda leaning toward a custom setup. but damn they cost.

  • rambos_riderambos_ride Posts: 3,186Senior Contributor
    Not sure of the diameter of the 75 gm truck driveshaft - its got to be double the hudson  diameter at least

    Problem with the 2nd driveshaft would fit thru that hole in the rear cross member but didn't come close to dropping far enough to think about attach to the yoke.

    I wanted the angled portion or 2nd shaft to be the shorter of the 2 pieces to give me better ground clearance.

    Grin..of course its all theory...until it hits the road. 
  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member

    Time for an update as more nutting out, shelling out, figuring out and cutting out has been happening.

    Starting off with the driveshaft.

    I wanted a two piece. Front will be locked static from trans to center bearing. then I wanted a slider second section due to airbags changing the length by over an inch of the second section.

    Had looked at a heap off options and discarded them all. Jag, Holden, Land Rover, HiAce, 4WD and list goes on. Sure I could get a dirty old thing & get it cut up and balanced. Recondition it. but in the end it was decided that everything else is new under the car & I like the piece of mind knowing a custom made one to my engine and requirements should last with any abuse thrown at it. Besides the car will be to low to want to go feking about with driveshafts ever again. Aint cheap to get all new components and shaft made up but its made for a nailheads low rev high torque and not a high rev/hp BBC/Ford.

    Now this was not some over night decision. Spent weeks solidly thinking about options and going to wreckers & talking to those in the know around the country. Heck the drive shaft had been sitting in my mind from the start & Flockie all so had been thinking it over from the time he got his hands on it. You will note in some old pics various driveshafts laying about. learnt a heap and Fraser the chap who made it up at Circle Track Engineering in Christchurch NZ was a top bloke to deal with. Showing us abut the shop & explaining everything.

    Next step was to get the darn thing in the car.

    Orgional plan was to bolt up the center bearing in the Hudsons cross brace where the old shaft ran. Whats that saying about best laid plans of mice and men… Basically the bearing was a lil to tall to get in the hole with no cutting and of course a tad to wide to also allow the exhaust. No biggie when you come armed with a cut off wheel right.

    Tunnel Mark1.

    Keep the Hudson one piece design and C- notch the top for the exhaust.

    As you can see. Not the best looking solution (yes I know who will ever see under there anyway right). Also not that strong really even though it was done in 6mm plate. So scrapped that idea.

    Tunnel Mark2.

    Goal: make it stronger whilst tucking everything up more & allowing more room for the exhaust.

    Cut out the whole first idea. Measured & welded up some box section that is way stronger than what originally was in place. Drilled and tapped the center to mount the bearing straight up to the body thus getting it up further.

    As you can see much more room and a much tidier looking structure.

    Trim off the ends and added top plats to mount a 6mm plate that will add further strength to the overall area whilst adding an area to mount the exhaust from.

    With the driveshaft mounted it was time to start thinking exhaust. Will carry that on in the following post.

    Pretty stoked how its all fitted up and Flockie did a great job fabricating it all up. Stronger and more room than stock Hudson.

  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member
    edited June 2018

    We all pass gas. Cars are no exceptions right. The louder it is the better it is. And I like a good deep tone.

    Time to tackle how to get the stinking unwanted gas out the backend of the car.

    0.0′ to much?

    ok seriously I will stop farting around. First off a general run down on the plan for the exhaust system overall.

    Running 2.25″/57mm pipe. Seems to be the favored max pipe size performance Nailhead guys use. Fine with me as I dont have much room to go larger.

    Shiny headers up front that Tee off to 2″ chrome sidepipes. Single exit not triples. These will be capped most of the time but will be functional.

    H to balance the gases and get a better sound and maybe better low end torque all going well.

    Couple of big ol mufflers.

    Exiting out the back through a Kaiser overrider.

    Christ it looks simple enough on paper right. How come thats always the way of things?

    So picked up the Headers and Lake pipes from the states at a sale way cheap.
    Pipes are 80″ single exit chrome 2″ jobbies you see all over the place.

    Using Patriot Tight Tuck headers. Reviews on various sites only showed good things – better than Sanderson and TA Performance. The ceramic chrome finish looks good.

    Mufflers im going for Flowmaster Super 40 series delta flow center/center. I know what a bloody mouth full.

    Big monsters that are 5inch thick. Always hard to tell when getting the right muffler even after watching/listening to so many sound bytes and youtube clips of Nailheads with the same muffler. Still they didnt seem to be to droning whilst still giving a nice deep sound. Only time will tell if this is the case. Always will have the side pipes to uncap and roar if we really want to let people know we are coming.

    Got some flanges laser cut up. Came with gaskets and bolts and worked out cheaper than off the shelf.

    Went for the thicker tube & bends pipe wall than standard. Easier for welding, sounds a bit better(apparently?), and with luck will last a bit longer. Also using Rubber bobbins/cotton reel style mounts through out the exhaust system.

    Starting in the middle at the hardest point. From bearing to muffler then over the diff.

    Many cuts & welds made the custom exhaust sit nice and snug whilst still allowing good clearances of about half an inch at the closest points to any other structure. May sound simple but took forever to get it to sit just right & point in the right direction whilst not dangling lower than the frame. Bloody happy how it turned out. Originally we had thought we might need to roll the pipe to flatten it a bit as we didnt think we would get it through the old Hudson center driveshaft hole.

    The mounts will carrying the exhaust load not hanging it.

    No matter if at Air out, ride height or Air up all looks good. Took ages getting it just right with so many tiny tweeks its just silly. But do it right and do it once. Very happy with the work Flockie did here.

    So ya. Thats where we are up to at the moment. Next weekend will C notch the rear frame to allow the exhaust to pass through so it can go through the stock Hudson bumper then through the Kaiser over rider.

    Similar to the below.

  • 33kc198933kc1989 Posts: 369Senior Contributor
    Nice build.  I follow it on the Hamb also.  
  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member
    33kc1989 said:
    Nice build.  I follow it on the Hamb also.  
  • Trevor JTrevor J Posts: 350Expert Adviser

    Hi Alex.  I sent you an email a couple of days ago about picking up the rest of the old Hudson parts.

    Did you get it.




  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member
    Trevor J said:

    Hi Alex.  I sent you an email a couple of days ago about picking up the rest of the old Hudson parts.

    Did you get it.




    yip. replied back may be in your spam folder as it is where I found your mail to me. Basically saying all good. Have the old front clip and the rear running gear sitting in the paddock waiting for you. heavy stuff. flick me a txt 0272979123.
  • Trevor JTrevor J Posts: 350Expert Adviser

    Hi Alex.  That's great. Thanks.  Not sure what happened to the E mail.  We are getting so much Spam its unreal  I will be heading North probably about the 25th .  Just one question are the spring hangers with the rear end.  I need a couple and was looking at getting some made but if they are there that would be good.  I may call in and get the lie of the land on the way through.


  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member
    If you have ever seen what can happen if a driveshaft goes bad then you can understand the importance of drive shaft loops. Mandatory here in NZ and come with a raft of requirements on positioning, thickness, design, how many you need and god knows what.

    The idea of being in a pole vaulting car as a broken shaft digs in to the pavement dosnt light my candle so to speak so Flockie and I got out to the shed and tackled the rear loop. one of the two the Hudson needs.

    Nice thick 6mm plate all bent up for the loop then a sandwich of another couple of 6mill plates on the floor to hold it all in place.

    Hanging off the loops floor plates we added more exhaust hangers. two for each muffler. this is to help stop the roll we had in the system that may cause issues over time. So in that section we have a bobbin/cotton reel mount carrying & positioning the load as it comes through the tunnel then two hangers just after it per muffler. We have so much tucked up in this area that we have to have that rigid placement to make sure all clearances are correct and everything stays where we want it to.

    Also added the two 90s behind the diff with flanges with a couple of bobbin mounts. Although everything currently looks good with no movement in the system and ample(yet rather tight) gaps we realize things can shift so these back mounts mounting plate are bolted to the floor to add a bit of future flexibility should we get some rattle or something.

    Guess next weekend we will do the front loop. Maybe run the front pipes and add the H cross over then toy with handbrake cable routing ideas(have a Lokar kit). Or perhaps look at the rear  that will need strengthened & notched to allow the pipes to pass through.

  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member
    Exhaust is done for the time being. Sure we will take it off to weld up and paint in the coming weeks but this is as far as we will go on it until it is sitting back on ground.

    Added in the two mid/front sections of pipe. Had to off-set one slightly to get better clearances etc as it comes forward to the trans. the H will be in the next section.

    As for the back. Well cut the holes for where the exhaust will pass through the frame but really need the car on the ground with the bumper on to get this bit sorted. Will tidy this up next week I guess.

    As you can see in the below pic everything is tucked up nicely. Those mufflers are 5 inch thick. Yip the big fat mothers are sitting flush with everything else and not dangling low whilst they have about half inch clearance from muffler to heat and sound treated floor.
    Also started the park brake.

    Using a Lokar kit. The Wilwood disks at the back have a drum assembly as well for the park brake and everything just clipped together easy.

    Routed the cables through the frame. Used a bit of airhose to insulate/protect the cables even though they are in a heavy duty  housing. Thats what the blue pipes are on the top pic. Yeah not the best looking I know but really who cares. They will get painted up and after driving will be coated in road gunk in no time.

    Made up a mounting plate with a access hole to get to the bolt under it.
    Idea is the front handbrake cable(using the stock Hudson one) will run along the inside of the outer frame to a lever we will make up next week that will attach to these brake cables. Lever so we can apply more force and thus lock those brakes up more effectively.

    You might of spotted the brake booster is in place. Was all very good chatting about levers etc for the handbrake but with real-estate under the car being restrictive we had to make sure both the brake booster and park break lever would fit in the same area together.

    As you can see – plenty of room for the rest of the park break system/lever.

    The placement of the brake booster worked out ace. way better than I hoped for to tell the truth. All I had thought was along the lines of ” I want it out of sight maybe hidden away under the floor like the original Hudson system.” Well how Flockie designed up the front sub frame works so well with the setup. Will bolt right up to the frame as you can see and it aligns right up with the hole in the firewall for the brake pedal assembly.

    Only issue was we had to cut a bleeping hole in the floor. Sigh. But what can you do? It hardly pokes through and with luck once its carpeted up with wont be noticeable.

    Guess I will give a run down on what im using. Hydrotech hydro boost unit. Supposed to be the bee’s knees with more stopping power than a vacuum booster. Runs off the PS pump not the engines vacuum so may free up a few HP. Has an accumulator that gives three or so full pressure presses of the pedal should a failure happen to the PS pump or something. Then the system would work like manual brakes.

    Then a dual master cylinder. Bore of 1.125 in./1.578 in. Have a remote cap & reservoir to throw on it so I dont need to worry about access holes in the floor and lifting carpet etc to check the brake fluid etc. More on all this latter down the track I guess.

    Will reposition the proportioning value under the MC instead of pointing down. Will also change out some of the hydraulic fittings to banjo’s /90’s.

    But yeah happy how it all mounts up & aligns up. Was thinking we might have to make big brackets to hold it in etc but how it lines up and mounts up with the frame is ace.

  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member
    Haven’t been up to much of late. this is more like a car diary update for my self than any progress update I guess.

    Exhaust is all TIGed up. looks good and rather jealous of Flockies nice even pattern he is able to achieve compared to the mess my efforts tend to yield.

    Whilst the sun was shining the better half got out the spray gun and painted up the exhaust then touched up the lizard skin here and there under the car.

    Flockie got busy on the lathe and machined up some bushings for the front airbags then made some other non-collapsible bits to help mount up the brake booster. Tell you having all the kit to just go machine up stuff as you need it is brilliant and a great time saver.

    Booster is all sitting up nice n pretty. Tucked up under the floor panel with a remote reservoir cap on it to make life easier in the future. Will change out the long low pressure out fitting you see just ending at the bottom of the frame to a banjo style so every thing is kept well up and safe. Thought this image might be of interest to other stepdown Hudson owners who have thought about updating the stock MC and wanted to know if a more modern duel style would fit.

    Chucked on a few tires. Getting tires on/off the back has always been a bit of a concern. Happy to report the back 235 on 7 inch wide rims went on just fine. Clearance on the inner side is a bit tight. say 1/2″ from the rubber to frame. so will get a 10mm slip on spacer just to give a bit more breathing room. Have about two inch from top of tire to wheel well at air out. Before any one says - yes will clamp down that handbrake cable.

    Also need a spacer up front as the outer step part of the wheel centers just barley hit the top of the big bleeping 6 pot calipers. Bit of a shit when you get custom rims made up then need to use spacers. Still its nothing major I guess.

    Its going to sit nice n low how we wanted it. Wont see any of the red rims once its on the ground with its skirts on at air out. Heck with a tank of gas and all the other weight might no see any white as well.

    We are swapping out the shockwave air bags at the back to a larger ones. With adjusting the mounts on the diff we will be able to obtain the same low air out height as it currently sits whilst being only slightly higher on ride height and much higher on air up / fully inflated. If that’s to low then we can go up another one or two inch but will not be able to go lower with out fab work.

  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member

    Not much of an update really as I have been working over the last weekends.

    Have decided not to run the spacers and will get the rims either altered if possible or two new rims made up.

    Some people on some sites I post say just grind the calipers but dont really want to go attacking the expensive 6 pot behemoths. Also think I would need more than the two or three mill most people say should be fine. No idea how they look inside so dont want to go putting holes in them.

    new shocks arrived and fit up nice. Air our low height is the same but max air up is wayyy higher. like above stock standard hudson.

    oh tires are all bolted up at the back as well as you can see.

    other than that fiddled around with the brakes a bit. Need to take all the brake line off to flare it but did a few smaller bits.

    Did nice little piggie tail loops from the MC to prop valve. Word is they help with line flex & vibrations. We did a straight line then a piggietail. I wasnt sure what I liked more. the clean look of the straight line or the more fancy loops. went for the loops in the end as you can see. Didnt take long just hand bent around a socket, pulled apart all even then flared.

    What do you guys think about looped lines?

  • KdancyKdancy Posts: 2,373Senior Contributor
    Like the looped lines. What type master is that?
  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member
    Kdancy said:
    Like the looped lines. What type master is that?
    Its a Classic Performance Aluminum duel MC. 1.25" bore. fitted with a billet remote reservoir cap and combination brake proportioning valve.
    Removed the 45lb pressure switch and have a 95lb to screw in to the prop valve.
    Like prop valve due to the fact that if you blow a hose on the back(or front) it shuts that system off so you keep the front(or back) still. 
    MC is just the standard GM, Ford etc you find on many cars I guess.

    Original lines and prop orientation looked like below. We swang it under the MC to tuck it up.

  • ValVal Posts: 790Member
    You are one hell of a craftsman! The car looks great and the more you do the better it looks. 
  • KustomKreepsKustomKreeps Posts: 327Member
    Val said:
    You are one hell of a craftsman! The car looks great and the more you do the better it looks. 
    Thank you vary much. From a guy with some great rides it means alot.

  • BigSkyBigSky Posts: 393Senior Contributor
    Craftsman  extraordinaire I’d say!  I’m lucky to blast & paint a couple parts in the time Alex completes major mods.  Well, it’s definitely something to keep working towards. Keep up the amazing work & us informed!!
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