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Great work! Keep the pictures coming.
Looking cooler than a nudie at high school. Hoping to see it thru.
Im a creature of comfort I have came
to realize as I grow older and my waste band wider. So it goes without
saying that I want a ride that is quiet enough to think and warm enough
to have my gal showing off her legs in a short skirt next to me on the
To help achieve this level of sloth I chose “Lizard Skin” for my heat
and sound deadening. Inside and out. Part of the attraction admittedly
is the fact its so bloody easy to apply, cleanup and will go anywhere
you can spray it even under the dash with its 90′ nozzle.
Write ups of the stuff all sounded promising. The ceramic heat one
has a video of a hot plate. Half coated in LS and the other untreated.
ice on either side with the treated side not melting at all.
Anyway to cut to the point we sprayed the under side first with the
sound deadening Lizard Skin. Has a special gun with a large nozzel and
sprays about a softball sized pattern. Layed a few coats of this down
the first day with cleanup being simple as a wash n wipe down with
Next day went in with the ceramic heat coating and again it splatted on nice and easy.
You can find out more about the stuff if you are interested here.
Went in and hooked up the diff and chucked in the bags front and back.
With that done we threw on the Fuel, Brake and Air Lines. Bolted down with Rubber insulated P clamps every 300mm.
Currently trying to figure out what to do for drive shaft.Thinking two
piece. front section fixed. Then D shaped bearing and the second piece
sliding to allow for the diff travel as it raises and lowers from the
Also working out where we will run the exhaust. Looking at 2.25″
pipe. more on that latter though unless anyone has some insight.
Its one of those things I never really have given much thought to. Kinda take it for granted right.
So im after info and feedback from any and all about getting a driveshaft out of some donnor car or truck.
Basic idea is a two piece setup. Front being fixed. Then the back being sliding as the diff will have 6 inch or so travel due to the airbags
We are not dealing with huge HP. Max I guess is 400HP.
Had thought a 4WD setup maybe. But everything else in the car is new and the missus is now kinda leaning toward a custom setup. but damn they cost.
Time for an update as more nutting out, shelling out, figuring out and cutting out has been happening.
Starting off with the driveshaft.
I wanted a two piece. Front will be locked static from trans to
center bearing. then I wanted a slider second section due to airbags
changing the length by over an inch of the second section.
Had looked at a heap off options and discarded them all. Jag, Holden,
Land Rover, HiAce, 4WD and list goes on. Sure I could get a dirty old
thing & get it cut up and balanced. Recondition it. but in the end
it was decided that everything else is new under the car & I like
the piece of mind knowing a custom made one to my engine and
requirements should last with any abuse thrown at it. Besides the car
will be to low to want to go feking about with driveshafts ever again.
Aint cheap to get all new components and shaft made up but its made for a
nailheads low rev high torque and not a high rev/hp BBC/Ford.
Now this was not some over night decision. Spent weeks solidly
thinking about options and going to wreckers & talking to those in
the know around the country. Heck the drive shaft had been sitting in my
mind from the start & Flockie all so had been thinking it over from
the time he got his hands on it. You will note in some old pics various
driveshafts laying about. learnt a heap and Fraser the chap who made it
up at Circle Track Engineering in Christchurch NZ was a top bloke to
deal with. Showing us abut the shop & explaining everything.
Next step was to get the darn thing in the car.
Orgional plan was to bolt up the center bearing in the Hudsons cross
brace where the old shaft ran. Whats that saying about best laid plans
of mice and men… Basically the bearing was a lil to tall to get in the
hole with no cutting and of course a tad to wide to also allow the
exhaust. No biggie when you come armed with a cut off wheel right.
Keep the Hudson one piece design and C- notch the top for the exhaust.
As you can see. Not the best looking solution (yes I know who will
ever see under there anyway right). Also not that strong really even
though it was done in 6mm plate. So scrapped that idea.
Goal: make it stronger whilst tucking everything up more & allowing more room for the exhaust.
Cut out the whole first idea. Measured & welded up some box
section that is way stronger than what originally was in place. Drilled
and tapped the center to mount the bearing straight up to the body thus
getting it up further.
As you can see much more room and a much tidier looking structure.
Trim off the ends and added top plats to mount a 6mm plate that will
add further strength to the overall area whilst adding an area to mount
the exhaust from.
With the driveshaft mounted it was time to start thinking exhaust. Will carry that on in the following post.
Pretty stoked how its all fitted up and Flockie did a great job fabricating it all up. Stronger and more room than stock Hudson.
We all pass gas. Cars are no exceptions right. The louder it is the better it is. And I like a good deep tone.
Time to tackle how to get the stinking unwanted gas out the backend of the car.
0.0′ to much?
ok seriously I will stop farting around. First off a general run down on the plan for the exhaust system overall.
Running 2.25″/57mm pipe. Seems to be the favored max pipe size
performance Nailhead guys use. Fine with me as I dont have much room to
Shiny headers up front that Tee off to 2″ chrome sidepipes. Single
exit not triples. These will be capped most of the time but will be
H to balance the gases and get a better sound and maybe better low end torque all going well.
Couple of big ol mufflers.
Exiting out the back through a Kaiser overrider.
Christ it looks simple enough on paper right. How come thats always the way of things?
So picked up the Headers and Lake pipes from the states at a sale way cheap.
Pipes are 80″ single exit chrome 2″ jobbies you see all over the place.
Using Patriot Tight Tuck headers. Reviews on various sites only
showed good things – better than Sanderson and TA Performance. The
ceramic chrome finish looks good.
Mufflers im going for Flowmaster Super 40 series delta flow center/center. I know what a bloody mouth full.
Big monsters that are 5inch thick. Always hard to tell when getting
the right muffler even after watching/listening to so many sound bytes
and youtube clips of Nailheads with the same muffler. Still they didnt
seem to be to droning whilst still giving a nice deep sound. Only time
will tell if this is the case. Always will have the side pipes to uncap
and roar if we really want to let people know we are coming.
Got some flanges laser cut up. Came with gaskets and bolts and worked out cheaper than off the shelf.
Went for the thicker tube & bends pipe wall than standard. Easier
for welding, sounds a bit better(apparently?), and with luck will last a
bit longer. Also using Rubber bobbins/cotton reel style mounts through
out the exhaust system.
Starting in the middle at the hardest point. From bearing to muffler then over the diff.
Many cuts & welds made the custom exhaust sit nice and snug
whilst still allowing good clearances of about half an inch at the
closest points to any other structure. May sound simple but took forever
to get it to sit just right & point in the right direction whilst
not dangling lower than the frame. Bloody happy how it turned out.
Originally we had thought we might need to roll the pipe to flatten it a
bit as we didnt think we would get it through the old Hudson center
The mounts will carrying the exhaust load not hanging it.
No matter if at Air out, ride height or Air up all looks good. Took
ages getting it just right with so many tiny tweeks its just silly. But
do it right and do it once. Very happy with the work Flockie did here.
So ya. Thats where we are up to at the moment. Next weekend will C
notch the rear frame to allow the exhaust to pass through so it can go
through the stock Hudson bumper then through the Kaiser over rider.
Similar to the below.
Nice build. I follow it on the Hamb also.
Hi Alex. I sent you an email a couple of days ago about picking up the rest of the old Hudson parts.
Did you get it.
Trevor J said:
Hi Alex. I sent you an email a couple of days ago about picking up the rest of the old Hudson parts.Did you get it.RegardsTrevorDunedin
Hi Alex. That's great. Thanks. Not sure what happened to the E mail. We are getting so much Spam its unreal I will be heading North probably about the 25th . Just one question are the spring hangers with the rear end. I need a couple and was looking at getting some made but if they are there that would be good. I may call in and get the lie of the land on the way through.
The idea of being in a pole vaulting car as a broken shaft digs in to
the pavement dosnt light my candle so to speak so Flockie and I got out
to the shed and tackled the rear loop. one of the two the Hudson needs.
Nice thick 6mm plate all bent up for the loop then a sandwich of
another couple of 6mill plates on the floor to hold it all in place.
Hanging off the loops floor plates we added more exhaust hangers. two
for each muffler. this is to help stop the roll we had in the system
that may cause issues over time. So in that section we have a
bobbin/cotton reel mount carrying & positioning the load as it comes
through the tunnel then two hangers just after it per muffler. We have
so much tucked up in this area that we have to have that rigid placement
to make sure all clearances are correct and everything stays where we
want it to.
Also added the two 90s behind the diff with flanges with a couple of
bobbin mounts. Although everything currently looks good with no movement
in the system and ample(yet rather tight) gaps we realize things can
shift so these back mounts mounting plate are bolted to the floor to add
a bit of future flexibility should we get some rattle or something.
Guess next weekend we will do the front loop. Maybe run the front
pipes and add the H cross over then toy with handbrake cable routing
ideas(have a Lokar kit). Or perhaps look at the rear that will need
strengthened & notched to allow the pipes to pass through.
Exhaust is all TIGed up. looks good and rather jealous of Flockies
nice even pattern he is able to achieve compared to the mess my efforts
tend to yield.
Whilst the sun was shining the better half got out the spray gun and
painted up the exhaust then touched up the lizard skin here and there
under the car.
Flockie got busy on the lathe and machined up some bushings for the
front airbags then made some other non-collapsible bits to help mount up
the brake booster. Tell you having all the kit to just go machine up
stuff as you need it is brilliant and a great time saver.
Booster is all sitting up nice n pretty. Tucked up under the floor
panel with a remote reservoir cap on it to make life easier in the
future. Will change out the long low pressure out fitting you see just
ending at the bottom of the frame to a banjo style so every thing is
kept well up and safe. Thought this image might be of interest to other
stepdown Hudson owners who have thought about updating the stock MC and
wanted to know if a more modern duel style would fit.
Chucked on a few tires. Getting tires on/off the back has always been
a bit of a concern. Happy to report the back 235 on 7 inch wide rims
went on just fine. Clearance on the inner side is a bit tight. say 1/2″
from the rubber to frame. so will get a 10mm slip on spacer just to give
a bit more breathing room. Have about two inch from top of tire to
wheel well at air out. Before any one says - yes will clamp down that handbrake cable.
Also need a spacer up front as the outer step part of the wheel centers
just barley hit the top of the big bleeping 6 pot calipers. Bit of a shit when you
get custom rims made up then need to use spacers. Still its nothing
major I guess.
Its going to sit nice n low how we wanted it. Wont see any of the red
rims once its on the ground with its skirts on at air out. Heck with a
tank of gas and all the other weight might no see any white as well.
We are swapping out the shockwave air bags at the back
to a larger ones. With adjusting the mounts on the diff we will be able
to obtain the same low air out height as it currently sits whilst being
only slightly higher on ride height and much higher on air up / fully
inflated. If that’s to low then we can go up another one or two inch but
will not be able to go lower with out fab work.
Not much of an update really as I have been working over the last weekends.
Have decided not to run the spacers and will get the rims either altered if possible or two new rims made up.
Some people on some sites I post say just grind the calipers but dont
really want to go attacking the expensive 6 pot behemoths. Also think I
would need more than the two or three mill most people say should be
fine. No idea how they look inside so dont want to go putting holes in
new shocks arrived and fit up nice. Air our low height is the same
but max air up is wayyy higher. like above stock standard hudson.
oh tires are all bolted up at the back as well as you can see.
other than that fiddled around with the brakes a bit. Need to take
all the brake line off to flare it but did a few smaller bits.
Did nice little piggie tail loops from the MC to prop valve. Word is
they help with line flex & vibrations. We did a straight line then a
piggietail. I wasnt sure what I liked more. the clean look of the
straight line or the more fancy loops. went for the loops in the end as
you can see. Didnt take long just hand bent around a socket, pulled
apart all even then flared.
What do you guys think about looped lines?
Like the looped lines. What type master is that?
You are one hell of a craftsman! The car looks great and the more you do the better it looks.