4bbl Intake from '49- '50 aluminum manifold

Ol racer
Ol racer Senior Contributor
edited December 2013 in Street Rods
fyi

Given scarce & expensive Hudson 4bbl Manifold's, I found utilizing '49 - '50 Aluminum Intake over the Yrs makes a nice alternative for street/strip. I made one manifold into a dual 2 bbl that uses part of Twin H linkage. They all have worked well.

Comments

  • 50C8DAN
    50C8DAN Senior Contributor
    Aren't the Clifford 4bbl manifolds still available?
  • Which 4bbl carburetor would you recommend using on a 308 that's been bored 0.60? (I took my 308 into the shop to be machined and it had to be taken that far to clean it up. It was standard at the bottom of the cylinders. I was surprised by that, but my machinist is reputable and careful, so I think I'm in good hands.) Anyways, I have one of those aluminum intakes and have been thinking of doing something along those lines...not sure what, but something.

    Does the motor actually produce more horsepower or torque with a bigger carb? Can it be made more efficient with a more modern carb?

    thanks, Erik

  • Ol racer
    Ol racer Senior Contributor
    edited December 2013
    Erik,
    Ive used as large as a780 Holley on a modified Hornet on the Track, but for a relatively stock motor, a small 500 or 600 CFM Holley or Edelbrock would be sufficient. A smaller Carb with vacume secondary is quicker launching. I use aThrottle Cable to tie into the Hudson linkage. I remove the original high 2bbl base then bolt or weld on a 1/2 aluminum 4bbl Adapter available at most Swap Meets. I use a die grinder to port out underneath some for optimum flow. Only drawback without Exhaust heat, warm up is slightly affected.
  • The 308 that I'm building right now is more or less the first engine that I have gone all the way with. Usually, I just put in new rings, bearings, gaskets, etc...and run it. This time the cam shaft gear was broken and the cylinder walls were just way to far out...so hence the total rebuild. I like the idea of giving the engine some more oomph and dressing it up a bit, but my fear is that it then becomes more high maintenance. Is that your experience? Is there a nice middle ground?

    For instance, I have an aluminum head and aluminum intake that I've been talking about putting on there. Combine that with a 7x grind cam from Russell and Randy Maas, some relief on the block, head studs...and maybe that's as far as guy should go without getting into crazy town. Maybe some headers?

    Outside of the obvious and original carb, what are fellas using to "improve" performance (street).
    -Erik
  • Hmmmmmm. "......camshaft gear was broken....". I'm just curious as to what that means, exactly. They aren't gear driven and I've not seen any broken sprockets in my short life as Hudson expert. Ha! Possibly you meant the oil pump drive (not the driven) gear? Haven't seen that either but anything's possible.
  • Yes the oil pump gear (on the cam shaft) had a couple of teeth missing. Not good. I think someone used this engine for racing. The oil pan was reinforced with plate, the valves were bigger and the block already had some relief. Maybe the relief was stock(?)...the engine is a 1953 block. I'm guessing the cam had high duration since the timing gears were chewed up too. I've read that is a possibility.

    Anyways, the rest of it was in good enough shape to rebuild. I'm just kicking around bolt on performance enhancers....and having some fun too.

    I've seen that Clifford page before...just waiting to get the machinist paid before I move onto headers and carb. Also, want to get some of advice from folks that have been down that road before...

    thanks, E


    -thanks, E
  • Ol racer
    Ol racer Senior Contributor
    edited December 2013
    FYI
    Sounds like you have a good start on a performance motor already with large valves and some relief. .060 to .090 is a perfect bore. The Twin H is hard to beat for Street and (I think) flows better than the Edmunds dual 2bbl's, (drawback, its heavy and dont look as nice as aluminum). The next manifold for better performance would be Clifford's 4BBL. However, being a lo buck guy taught me to fabricate things so Ive built many manifolds from Log's to 4bbl's.

    I like the Hudson Aluminum Intake because it has nice curved runners to the ports. Actually nicer than Cliffords where #1 & #6 go straight then sharp 90 degree at the port. Actually my car ran identical times with Clifford's 4bbl as It did with my Aluminum dual 2bbl manifold (pictured). Only drawback requires welding a plate on the bottom then porting out inside. If dont have Twin H or dont want to go 4bbl, I made an adapter and ported the holes on a '49 Aluminum Intake to install a large Pontiac V8 Rochester 2GC 2 bbl Carb. The Adapters come with studs and need only drill & tap the manifold then fasten with counter sunk boltsfrom Lowes/

    If on a budget, I suggest your machine Shop do at least the following, deck the block, do a multi-angle competition valve job with 30 degree intake seats, use Forged Pistons, if possible,(but not necessary for Street) buy another performance camshaft from Randy Maas, along with Randy's Double Roller Timing Chain Set-Up, that allows advancing the Cam Timing slightly for better performance, then clean everything and assemble carefully using a Manual..

    Be sure to clean & rinse the oil pump and pry off the cover on the pickup then clean the screen.. Check the Oil pump Gear for wear and replace if needed.

    Additionally, I like Aluminum Heads. You wont have a problem if its true, Use a PermBond Gasket, and Install Studs. (Ive even used 7/16 Studs in a motor with no problem)... Re- Torquing the Head sequence is important.

    Lastly, consider Headers, but suggest Jet Hot coat to prevent rusting over time...

    Ive found mildly hopped up motors require no more maintenance than stock.
  • And, if I may throw in a shameless plug, consider installing a true full-flow oil filtration system before you hit the starter button for the first time. It's the most critical time in the life of your expensive rebuild.
    I couldn't resist.
    Frank
  • Lee ODell
    Lee ODell Senior Contributor
    edited December 2013
    I agree with Frank. Even with all the careful cleaning preperation the filter will pick up a surprising amount of stuff you will swear was not in the engine.
    Lee O'Dell
  • Frank, I search the internet for frankvintagefullflow.com and nothing came up. I am assuming that your username is the name of your business. I would like to purchase a full flow oil filter system.

    -erik
  • erik
    You'll find a "Contact" page on the site through which we can communicate. Check the "Updates" page to see where I'm at on the project.
    Thanks for your interest.
    Frank
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