New project 1941 BIG BOY
For the last few years, I have been dragging my boy to all kinds of car events. He has been studying and has decided that a older truck is what he wants to cut his teeth on. He just turned 13 this year and been under foot in the shop since he could crawl. I work on all kinds of mechanical things and rebuild 12 bolt Chevy rears and Chevy 6 cylinders.
So we started searching for his project. Went thru the list in my head of trucks sitting around. One guy has a 54 Chevy 1 ton with no rust. We look at it and like it. He decides not to sell it. On to the next one. A friend of mine, much older than I has told me about this old Hudson he has sitting in a barn since 1975. This was 10+ years ago. He described it as nothing special and in bad shape. We decided to call him and go check it out.
We opened the barn to find this.
So far I can find no rust holes in it. The original motor was in the back and a extra Teraplane engine to boot. There is a SBF with auto installed. All original suspension. It is bought and we still need to pick it up. Then it will be washed and better pics taken. What should it be worth?
We are going to take our time and decide how to go about working it over.
So we started searching for his project. Went thru the list in my head of trucks sitting around. One guy has a 54 Chevy 1 ton with no rust. We look at it and like it. He decides not to sell it. On to the next one. A friend of mine, much older than I has told me about this old Hudson he has sitting in a barn since 1975. This was 10+ years ago. He described it as nothing special and in bad shape. We decided to call him and go check it out.
We opened the barn to find this.
So far I can find no rust holes in it. The original motor was in the back and a extra Teraplane engine to boot. There is a SBF with auto installed. All original suspension. It is bought and we still need to pick it up. Then it will be washed and better pics taken. What should it be worth?
We are going to take our time and decide how to go about working it over.
3
Comments
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fyi
Your Truck looks very solid and an 'excellent canidate' to restore. Regarding value, Ive paid $2K for rusty Tks without any drive train then needed thousands in floors, body panels & misc repairs so your really way ahead already. With two motors you have a choice back to original or Ford Drive Train. The latter will go down the Hwy better, but either way finished value will be close to Indentical. Many prefer modern drive train now as opposed to rebuilding the original Mtr that wont cruise Interstates without an OD.... Good Luck..
Ps: If wont keep Trk all Hudson, consider installing a Hornet 6. It bolts right in and will easily keep up on the Interstates.......0 -
Tom, send me the SN along with your info to HETcramerlp@roadrunner.com (drop the HET) and I'll add your truck to the registry and let you know how many more like it there are out there.
Wish my truck was as solid as that one. I've just re-powered mine with a 39 Hudson Eight. The 212 six was fine, but I blew a soft plug in the back of the block and I had the eight. Way more power than I need but it's great show and tell. It's happy at 50 with the 4:11 rear end, but my 49 with overdrive has me spoiled.
Another post here is considering another run of high-speed rear ends. A 'Punkin' from a 51 to early 52 with automatic, (without the rear cover) is an option. Or you could add another tranny, turn it backwards and run it in 2nd gear for an overdrive. Some day I'm gonna do that.0 -
We are planning on digging it out this weekend. Better pics then.
Can power steering be added to this? From a later Hudson (stepdown)?0 -
Doc,
Your truck in it's condition could practically be a twin to ours.0 -
Well, here it is.
Cleaned out the box and cab. Pulled the seat and gave the truck a thorough washing. It is in remarkable shape. Only need to patch the floor in a couple places. Pound dents out of others.
Feel like we hit the jackpot with this one. Can't wait to get it in the shop and get it road worthy.
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If we want to use the original rear axle. What rear housing # is it and what gears are available to swap out to a more highway friendly ratio. Or donor cars. I believe it has 4.56 now. Would prefer 3.08-3.73.
It also has no sway bar installed. We want to install one and would like to know a good junkyard candidate to use.
Next is retrofitting disc brakes on the original spindles. Any tips?
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Beautiful truck,love the swb. 41's. That looks like the original outside rear view mirror.
Very rare to still have that on the truck. Have fun !!
"Ric"0 -
I'm all for it's your truck..do what you will...but, gotta make an exception when you find something like this.
Make it SAFE, Make it GO - leave the rest of the patina in-tact..maybe redo the upholstery on the seat to make ya more comfortable, glass etc..again make it SAFE.
It took 70+ years for the truck to look like it does, you'll have more fun and spend a LOT LESS $$$$ doing a sympathetic restoration on this one.
Great find all around!0 -
12Bolt - I concur with Doc. To find ANY Hudson truck in that kind of condition, especially a pre-war one (which are far more rare than the '46-7s) is just truly remarkable!
Because the chassis are literally indestructible they were often just "driven into the ground".
I'd try Wildrick for a more favorable rear axle ratio & or put an o.d. in & leave it alone as per Doc.0 -
The repro rear end gears would only fit up to 1938, I believe, due to the number of bolt holes in them.
If the car had its original engine, bolting in a Hudson overdrive would be an easy way to get some speed out of the truck, and it's in the spirit of the original. However, I think you said that a newer Brand X engine had been installed, so fitting a Hudson transmission to that, would be a pain. However if you WERE to go back to the original engine, then fit an overdrive, you could put a standard ratio rear end into the truck (4.11). The 4.56 were used on trucks and the 4.11's (from passenger cars) should be plentiful.
I think Hudson mated its overdrives to 4.56 rearends in the passenger cars, but I put an OD in my '37 and kept the 4.11. It's a bit of a strain getting up some of the long hills on West Virginia interstates, but in most cases the car can handle the hills. And there's always the kickdown feature.0 -
Here are our plans for now. The 212 is very worn, according to the prior owner. The SBF is a 221 V8 (smallest ford made). We are in favor of putting a simple 250 Chevy inline 6 in it, with a 700r4 trans. We weighed the truck, it scaled at 2900 as is. The 250 should be plenty thrifty.
The truck was repainted in the early 70's. There is no bondo in it. The paint is rough and there are plenty of small dents. I do like the patina as it is "earned", but also realize that this truck needs paint to preserve it.
Would like to keep the truck as close to original as possible albeit with some safety and simple comfort upgrades.
Safety:
3 point seat belts
disc brakes
front sway bar
Engine that can keep up with traffic
Comfort:
Sound deadener in cab
insulation on fire wall
rework the original seat.
Pull some leafs out of the rear spring pack
Speaking of seats. The one in this truck sat on top of 2 boards bolted to the floor. The seat frame is made from wood and has decent springs inside. The frame has hinges between the top half and bottom half. Is that correct?
The seat only had 2 small clips holding it to the cab back. Is that also correct?
After getting that stuff done, we will drive it for the summer (2014) and work out any bugs. The next winter, tear it down for a full redo.
Parts needed.
The bolt in floor piece (ours is rusted)
A hood spring
4.11 gears or 3.73 and up if there is anything that will go into it's rear end.0 -
Thanks Guys!
It is official. We have started on it. Pushed it into the shop on Sunday. Took 5 of us with the front brakes dragging.
First task was to grease all of the front end. There are at least 22 grease zerks on the front of this beast. All of them had rock hard grease to be picked thru. Jake persevered. It turns much better and better yet seems tight.
Next was removing of the front tires and all of the front drum brake assemblies. Just a spindle and knee are showing. Removed the drums from the spindles (riveted together). Getting hubs ready to mount much newer parts house rotors on. Will be making our own brackets to hold calipers.
Removed the rusty exhaust to just clear the way.
Pulled the factory master cylinder and will fit up a dual reservoir unit next.
Picked up a used rear bumper from a 53 -56 ford pickup at a swapmeet on Sat. It will get mounted.
Jake had to get some thin shop overalls. Mom does not like so much grease rubbed on his pants. Got to teach him to use rags.
The speedometer seems to be registering 38000 miles. I believe it might be true. The 2nd owner thought it was. He said it sat for a looonng time before he got it.
How many leafs do we pull from the rear axle to soften it up but keep the height? Picked up a 93 Ford Explorer rear axle with 3.27 gears and 59.5 " wide outside of brake drums.
Found no grease zerk on the center pivot. What do we do with it?1 -
It has not been mentioned yet, and perhaps you are already a member of the Hudson, Essex Terraplane club (HET.org). If not, you should check it out. Those folks mentioned in these posts are available through the HET. Also, there is most likely a member near your home with a truck such as yours,.0
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The user and all related content has been deleted.0
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According to the published stats on the 47 trucks witch were 3/4 ton . The bed dropped 1"
when fully loaded . I know on the one I had if I sat on the tailgate it moved down some (im a big guy). But if you watched it the rear springs did'nt move. the front of the truck came up some.
Amazingly it rode quite nice as I recall, it is a long chassis after all.0 -
FYI
Chevy S10 Pickup seat with all theie Belts works well and practically drops in place. I suggest finding Hornet front Brakes & Drums and forget Discs, then spend the money elsewhere..
You have a real Nice Trk so it would be nicer to put a Hornet Mtr in which bolts in and would easily keep up with todays traffic retaining more Value... (I know, since Im fortunate having restored two Hudson Trks, a St Rod and a Stock one and its far more more valuable Hudson powered)....(Hornets Won a lot of Early NASCAR Races and all parts are available).
Removing some rear leafs works well too and suggest also put in 2" lowering Blocks gives a nice level Stance .. I fit a Torino dual non Disc Master Cyl to my Trk. Its EZ and still uses the Hudson Emergency dual System too. ECI Brakes sells the small Adapter, but I made mine..0 -
I contacted ECI. They make one that is close but no go. Me and Jake will fab one up tonight on the mill. I can make extra for those interested.1
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Its just a triangular 1'4" plate with 3 counter sunk holes for the Hudson Pedal Brkt, then 2 countersunk holes for the Torino M/Cyl. You will need to cut & thread the Torino M/CYL Pushrod to urilize the Hudson Yoke. If done correctly you can retain the whole secondary brake system....
Had Torino M/Cyl fpr 3 Yrs with no problem. The Initial Fill was tricky using a funnel but havent had to add Fluid since. I picked up a plastic 'Remote Fill Kit' (for a race car) at Swap Meet but no reason to install... Need to buy the DRUM Brakes & Non Power M/Cyl though....0 -
OK. Question on the center pivot for the steering. It is tight ( not loose). I consider it normal. It must need lube after all these years. How to do it?
Looked with a flashlight. Speedometer says 35000 miles.
Next question.
How to remove the Speedo cluster assembly?0 -
tom nice truck. i have a question in regards to your chevy 6 cylinder with the 700r4. my son is working on a 54 chvey wagon with a 235 and we would like to put in an overdrive trans. what needs to be done to do that swap?
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Be glad its tight and another sign of actual low mileage..... Most Steering mechanisms get play in that center pivot after a lot of miles then need a repair 'Kit' installed. There should be a grease fitting on the side of the center pivot. Turn wheels L & R while underneath & should find it. Hudson's had a lot Grease Fittings....
If Dash like a '46 the Panel folds down. Reach up behind there shoud be 2 short bolts toward top to unscrew, then you will be able to remove the Speedo....0 -
Ken,
How much did the mild hop up improve your 262? Is there a performance difference between wide block version and narrow block 262? Just wondering because I have a couple 1949 narrow block 262 engines
Lee O'Dell0 -
12BoltTom
What a great looking truck you have to start with. Thanks for sharing your project. Looking forward to reading about and seeing more of what you will be doing to make it even better.
Lee O'Dell0 -
I would love to put a Hudson engine in it. There are just no parts in my neck of the woods. I do have the original splasher 212 and a spare. Both need a total rebuild. Costs would surely be prohibitive.
I have a huge access to nice Chevy inline 250 parts. Can make 250 HP in my sleep. Just want a nice cruiser for myself and the boy.
My center pivot has no grease zerk. Do I take it apart and add a zerk? Any tricks to getting it apart?
Ol Racer,
The 2 short screws for the dash. Are they on the bottom side? And the speedo cluster will have a actual hinge?1 -
If sameas'46 2 1/4" bolts L & R at bpttom or nay be Ezr unscrew 2 Screws at top Center. The Panel comes out then can acess Speedo... you should see them if look underneath dash.0
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12BoltTom
On my 47 the zerk is just below and to the left of the arm that goes to the tie rod ends. Is it possible the zerk has broken of leaving the threaded part making it difficult to see where it should be?
No trick to taking it apart. Easy to disassemble.
Lee O'Dell
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My center pivot bracket is riveted to the frame. 1 bolt thru it. When the motor is out, we will pull the bolt, drill body for a zerk, clean it and reassemble.
Almost have the disc brakes on the front done.
Stock 41 hub with 1/2" bolts inserted from the back for lug bolts.
1992 Ford Crown Vic front rotors, direct bolt on.
1978-87 G-body GM front calipers and pads.
Custom caliper bracket to mate caliper to spindle. 3/8" thick. Pics when done. Made out of cardboard tonight.
Clears 15" 40's Plymouth rims with ease.
Have the dash cluster apart. Going to make a instrument insert with a jeep speedo. Will look for nice Hudson dash parts as time goes. Going to use aluminum panels for the instruments and glove box. Engine turn them on the mill. Add a light tint color to the panels to take some of the brightness out and clear coat them.1 -
I"m curious about the speedo / instrument face. Is the clear plastic lens clouded up, or is it the plastic numbers (which appear to be on a solid background behind the needle)?
If the plastic lens has clouded up, just a thought: I wonder if that polish that you use to clean up modern plastic headlight lenses (when they get cloudy) would help? The cloudiness on the speedo lens would not, of course, be from abrasion as in the headlight lenses; still, it might help.0 -
you are now turning this amazingly nice original, and rare, Hudson pick-up into a hot rod.
Look at them in e-Bay right now; not a single one of them have a single bid, then look at the spirited biding on the ones that are original.
Think about it, I have, esp. when you said you're going to put a Chevy or whatever engine in it.
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My thoughts exactly!! Very sad!!0
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