troubleshooting a Stewart vacuum canister

Unknown

On to the next problem, guys.



Can anyone help me with some direction on troubleshooting a Stewart Vacuum canister in my '26?



As part of the work recently, I replaced the vacuum canister top (twice, don't ask :eek: ). It appears from the testing I've done that it is not working properly.



I verified all of the lines are clear by blowing compressed air through them. I also verified that there is vacuum at the canister by removing the line from the intake manifold and verifying the suction.



It seems to me that if there is suction in the canister, that it should pull fuel from the tank into the canister. From my limited understanding, it looks like the float is there to cut off the flow from the tank to the canister when it gets full, then allow it to flow when it gets low again. Not much to go wrong, right?



So, where am I going wrong? After running for 15 minutes, the engine stops and the canister is empty. I have to fill it again from the top to get it to run.



What should I be looking for? How do I test the canister to make sure it is functioning properly? Any suggestions?



Thanks for any information you all can provide.

Unknown

You already did test it. It didn' work. I recently did 2 of them . worked well. Make sure every thing inside is clean. Make new gaskets and seal it well. Make sure release valve on top is clear and spring loaded valve inside works and that accually is all there is to do. Except for making sure you have good vacuum. Very simple working. One valve shuts off vacuum to atmosphere while it pulls from tank, then when full that valve opens allowing fuel to flow to carb. If this fails send me the thing and I will check it out for you

Unknown

26hudson wrote:

On to the next problem, guys.



Can anyone help me with some direction on troubleshooting a Stewart Vacuum canister in my '26?



As part of the work recently, I replaced the vacuum canister top (twice, don't ask :eek: ). It appears from the testing I've done that it is not working properly.



I verified all of the lines are clear by blowing compressed air through them. I also verified that there is vacuum at the canister by removing the line from the intake manifold and verifying the suction.



It seems to me that if there is suction in the canister, that it should pull fuel from the tank into the canister. From my limited understanding, it looks like the float is there to cut off the flow from the tank to the canister when it gets full, then allow it to flow when it gets low again. Not much to go wrong, right?



So, where am I going wrong? After running for 15 minutes, the engine stops and the canister is empty. I have to fill it again from the top to get it to run.



What should I be looking for? How do I test the canister to make sure it is functioning properly? Any suggestions?



Thanks for any information you all can provide.

I had Geoff work on mine but it is a 1929 vacuum tank and I was not sure if it was all there. I got it from a swap meet. I had a pre 29 tank in my 29 that worked great. I broke the top on it.Damn that (#&#%% me off. When I got mine back from Geoff I used a 2 gallon gas can to test it and it did great while the car is running. It sucked all that gas up. I do not have my gas tank ready for use yet. Try using a gas can near by with some fuel line and see if it works like that. Maybe your problem is closer to your gas tank and not the vacuum tank. Just a thought, Ron

Unknown

Good tip on trying it with a hose in a fuel can. If it works that way, I would suspect a leak in the fuel line. These leaks can be so tiny that you won't know there is a leak but just enough to keep the fuel from being sucked up from the tank. I would replace the 80 year old fuel line anyway.



I've had 2 cars with the stewart vacuum tank and found the old gaskets to be extremely deteriorated on both of them. Get some good quality cork gasket material and enjoy an afternoon cleaning the tank out and making gaskets. If you have a vat of carb cleaner, you could soak the tank in it, but it will take any original paint off if that is a problem. Throttle body cleaner spray will clean it up good but may also take off the paint. Any little bit of crud can stop up this system.



Have a good day

Steve

Jon B

There's an on-line, downloadable Stewart vacuum tank repair manual from 1927, at http://hudsonsuper6.tripod.com/ (thank you, Lewis Mendenhall!).



As to carburetors, here's a webpage where you can click the link listing your carb, and be sent to an article in a 1927 Dyke's shop manual. http://www.old-carburetors.com/1927-Dykes.htm

Unknown

can you tell me where i can get the top of the canister i have a 1923 dodge brothers tour car i have been getting it ready for summer and broke the top of the canister:mad:

Unknown

bocephus7126 wrote:

can you tell me where i can get the top of the canister i have a 1923 dodge brothers tour car i have been getting it ready for summer and broke the top of the canister:mad:

http://www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com/Universal.htm



Look thru here and see if this is the one you need ? I have also broke them.:mad: Ron

[Deleted User]

Tom, the vacuum canister on my 29DB pickup has never worked correctly. PM me your address and an estimate to do a repair please or e-mail me at HEThjhill@verizon.net take off the HET



Harry

Unknown

Dear 26, Interesting thread, I have yet to get to the point where I will be using my gas tank so all this info is very useful. My tank seems to be all there and appears to be a working unit. So I hope I don't have any problems with it. But if I do I can just refer back to this thread ( I have a 28 Hudson). Crossing my fingers, Phil

Geoff

There are four different types of Stewart vacuum tank, the most common one being the one with a die-cast solid top, and spring loaded toggle lever valve actuation. These are notorious for cracking on the top junctions, where the tapered thread fittings screw in. these were used up to 1927. then the first leverless type came in 1928, which had two wire-controlled voalves, each wire having a loop at the bottom and the wire soldered to the top of the float had a "goose-neck" half way up. the loops must both be located at the top section of the float wire so the the float wire can slide up and down and actuate the valves.. In 1929 the valves were again controlled by wires, but with right-angle bends in the bottom, and the float has a slotted piece of flat metal on top. the right-angles fit inside this slot. it would take more space than I am able to give to explain the various workings, but I did do an article in the W.T.N. last year about how the tanks work, and how to trouble-shoot them. As advised inposts here, pay attention to gaskets particularly' and if the older die-cast top type, check that the air valve has not fallen out of the top.

Geoff.