New clutch slipping under heavy acceleration

[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
I have a 52 hornet Coupe with a 7X motor with 3 spd, O/D. It has a new clutch in it but it will slip when I tromp on the gas while in second. I haven't checked the fluid level yet but I will. If not the fluid what would the other possibilities be? I'm taking the car over to my buddy next week but would like your feedback. Thanks, Niels

Comments

  • 7XPacemaker
    7XPacemaker Senior Contributor
    When you say "new"- what does that mean? Where did it come from? Is it a NOS one? One from Ron Fellows? One from Doug when he was doing them? I had something like this happen to my Pacemaker once....
  • It came from a guy out of Portland by the name of Ron Anderson. I did'nt order it or put it in so not sure if it was sufficient.
  • bob ward
    bob ward Senior Contributor
    Assuming the linkage adjustments are all OK, one possibility is that the gasket between the flywheel and clutch cover is too thick. From memory it should be 1/32" or 0.8mm.



    Another possibility is that the clutch fingers are not adjusted correctly.
  • Aaron D. IL
    Aaron D. IL Senior Contributor
    Clutch pedal adjustment. If it's not right it willl cause slipping but that slippage would usually be noticed in lower gears. too.
  • I guess I'll find out next week. Hopefully it is just the linkage. I appreciate the input.
  • Clutchguy
    Clutchguy Senior Contributor
    Neils,make sure that there is enough free travel in the pedal. Also,there is no way to check the level of fluid. Drain it and put in another 6-7oz of clutch fluid. It could be that someone thought it was fluid drive and filled it up!!:eek: If this doesn't correct the concern, it will need to come apart for inspection. The Hudson wet clutch when done properly should hold up for awhile,usually long enough to break something else long before it will give up-axle,input shaft or a u-joint etc...:D
  • Clutch guy wrote:
    Neils,make sure that there is enough free travel in the pedal. Also,there is no way to check the level of fluid. Drain it and put in another 6-7oz of clutch fluid. It could be that someone thought it was fluid drive and filled it up!!:eek: If this doesn't correct the concern, it will need to come apart for inspection. The Hudson wet clutch when done properly should hold up for awhile,usually long enough to break something else long before it will give up-axle,input shaft or a u-joint etc...:D



    The clutch doesn't start to engage until the clutch pedal is almost all the way out...

    We'll check that first, then the oil.
  • nhp1127 wrote:
    The clutch doesn't start to engage until the clutch pedal is almost all the way out...
    We'll check that first, then the oil.

    Neils:

    Along with the GREAT advice you have already received let me add:

    The clutch pedal linkage is a combination of surfaces that are without bearings. The surfaces depend on the proper lubrication and correct adjustment of the overall linkage to assure proper operation and a reasonable life time. The linkage in your car is the same as that which was in my car. Several years ago I did a complete clutch job which included all refurbished or rebuilt parts from Doug the Clutch Guy. Included in the job was the rebushing of the clutch linkage cross shaft which holds the throw out bearing... a through check of the throw out bearing collar. Most important in this process was the external linkage. The mounting collar which bolts to the Hudson frame provides the fulcrum point for the paddles which engage the paddles on the bell housing. The bracket in my Hudson was badly worn. The fulcrum hole was oval and oblong from the years of use. Also the cross shaft had a 1/4 inch deep groove cut into it from years of use. The bracket was repaired using a bushing and the shaft was welded and rehardened. These changes coupled with the replacement of the paddle rubbers allowed the clutch adjustments to be made as prescribed in the Hudson Mechanical procedures.

    See this thread for the pictures and a few other comments:
    http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15806&highlight=Clutch+wear

    Worth a look... since fixing mine I have found several others with exactly the same wear.

    Cheers
  • If all else fails you may have a 9 inch clutch. Have seen this happen a time or two.
  • Nobody has mentioned that whoever put it together may have put in motor oil or something. Drain it out. If you don't have clutch oil handy, put in 6 oz. of automatic trans fluid.
  • Huddy42
    Huddy42 Senior Contributor
    If using ATF you MUST use Dextron11 or 111, some of the Ford ATF oils can cause slippage, found this out the hard way.
  • nhp1127, did you ever figure out what this issue was? I have been through hell and back with my clutch and after all parts have been replaced it seems to be slipping a upon acceleration and the clutch doesn't engage for a long time after pedal release...
  • RL Chilton
    RL Chilton Administrator, Member
    edited November 2015
    Ratwasp-

    Since Dr. Pedersen (Niels) sold his Hudsons, I have not seen him on this forum in a very long time.  Last time he posted was July of 2012.  

    Check with Dr. Doug for a diagnosis on your clutch.  
  • Thank you RL, I got most of my parts from Dr Doug and his team.
  • Glowplug
    Glowplug Expert Adviser

    The old info from Ralpie... Is and continues to be the prime reason the adjustments to Hudson clutches appear to be ok and then change...you MUST inspect disassembled linkage, the wear points canot be seen when assembled.
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