Fuel tank interior
Hienkel429
Member
Hello all I dropped the tank out of my '51 Hornet sedan after draining the 3 gallons of varnish that were its contents. After getting it freed of the straps the tank had quite a few rocks in it. I wish I were kidding.... rocks! And large ones at that. I removed the fuel sending unit and was able to get almost all of the rocks out, but there was one thing in the tank that baffled me. In the tank wedged under the center baffle seemed to be what looked like a small funnel? Is this part of fuel pick up system? Is it just more trash in the tank along with a bunch of sand and all? I can't find a schematic of the gas tank interior systems..... so I go the experts. Thanks!
- Ray
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Comments
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That"funnel" was actually a strainer that went onto the bottom of the pickup tube. No doubt toast by now.0
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Ughhh.... what I was afraid of. Did the strainer have some sort of media (cloth) to filter the gas? Any source of a pic? I guess 0% chance of getting it back together without cutting that side of the tank open?0
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With all of the junk that you had in your tank, it might behoove you to cut it open anyway, just so that you can do a thorough cleaning and repair. It might even be beneficial to get a tank that has been boiled, cleaned, coated and ready for plug and play and save your current tank for leisurely weekend work.http://wildrickrestorations.com/ carries reconditioned tanks if you are interested.0
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Didn't see them on their website... any idea of $? Thanks!0
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I don't know what they sell them for. They often have 5-8 on hand that have been refurbished. Best to give them a call on Monday. Ask for Dennis.0
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The rocks might have been put there by the former owner in an attempt to clean the crap in the tank. One fellow tells me that he cuts a hole in the top of a tank, puts nails and solvent into the tank, puts the tank in his pickup bed, and then drives around with it. The action of the nails rolling around, helps scour the bottom of the tank. Maybe someone was doing the same thing with the rocks, and neglected to remove them!
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Use a chain works well and don't have to worry if you got what ever you put in.About 5-6 in. long should work.I used Gas TankReNu it was the ticket they cut it open blast it clean seal itweld it new fuel float and seal the out side with a guarantee0
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FYI
Looks like you have a Nice Car...There are things to pour in the Tank from JC Whitney and others to slosh around but I prefer the ReNu Process at select Radiator Shops. In the absence of a Fill Pipe, Ive install a short Nipple in the Tank to go thru the floor then useD a hose to connect to another section pipe from a donor car thru the fender as a fill pipe.
However, I now have an extra Hudson fill pipe but I dont know what Yr Hudson its from. I could post a picture then if you can use it you can have it for the shipping cost.
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Eastwood had a tank cleaner and sealer that works well also0
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I thought there was post on the old ClassicCar forum about new stainless tanks?0
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Thanks again for all your insights.Doc, I might be able to shed some light on your question. My tank is not painted on its top but was on the sides and bottom.Ol Racer, thank you for your offer but I will pass for right now.Here are some picture of the tank, the fuel sending unit (which needs a good cleaning but works), and the fuel pick up tube. Is the funnel fuel filter thingy a necessary part or will it all work without it?Do the Eastwood and other products like por-15 do a good job of etching off, or converting the rust scale in the tank?Thanks again everyone.-Ray0
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Here is the piece that there was speculation about being a some sort of filter. I was just able to get it out. It is made of aluminum and is put on a 4x4 for reference of size. Along with this piece... I also just pulled a 5 inch piece of cow rib out of the tank so there's no telling what it is. Again it was in the tank of a 51 Hornet.-Ray0
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" . . . a 5" piece of cowrib out of the tank." OMG!! It never ceases to amaze me what one will find in the darnedest places!As far as the sending unit goes, PAULLARGETYPE here on the forum sells replacement units. Well worth just installing a new one.If you need better contact info, send me an email.0
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Regarding the factory galvanized coating. If you are concerned about the Rhino coat, don't be. Hudson factory offered undercoating. The part number for stepdowns is HS135431. So if the car is to be AACA judged, have that number on hand. Better yet, have a Master Parts Catalog available. Then print a copy of all the accessories on your car , things like Fram Oil filters or exhaust deflectors(factory authorized). When the team captain approaches your car, hand the printed copy to him so that some zealous judge( undercarriage, engine, interior &exterior) won't deduct points without your knowledge. The team captain will advise the judging team, of the authorized things first. Been doing this for 25 years.0
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Thanks Ron,
I had read about the factory undercoating and probably will do a rubberized coating on this car for durability and sound quieting. I'm in my early 30's and don't plan on doing it ever again. So just to close out my thoughts a couple of questions.
1. Will the pick up tube still work fine without whatever that funnel/filter thing was?
2. I should probably install an inline fuel filter. The car currently has an old school ceramic one. Where would be the easiest place to put an inline? I kind of don't want to have a plastic filter right there under the hood.
3. Do I really need to clean the fuel lines and pump? I have some misgivings about running a solvent through the fuel pump. Thoughts?
Thanks
- Ray0 -
The filter thing is a "sock" and probably, if not deteriorated by now, was pushed out by some former owner. The pickup will work fine as lone as there is no pinhole leak, Test it like a straw, place a finger over the end, and suck on it, obviously after cleaning. Yes on the fuel filter. Preferably a clear one so that you can spot trouble before it affects performance. I added a Airtex E-8011(6v) fuel pump with a clear filter back by the gas tank. If you do not know when the Mechanical pump was rebuilt, I would have it rebuilt. Had good luck from Then & Now(Auto Parts Cellar). The fuels today have plenty of "solvents" in 'em already. I advise using Stabil to preserve fuel, since shelf life is but a few months. Marvel won't hurt either. Ron0
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Mine came to me with nothing on the pickup and have never had an issue. I too have an electric booster pump near the rear axle and a plastic inline filter between the tank and pump.
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We just finished our fuel tank cleaning.
6 gallons white vinegar (it eats rust)
3 lb coffee can of broken car door glass (the small 1/4" size pieces)
Put contents in the tank and seal it. Let sit on each side fro about 12 hrs.
Strap tank to the side of a tractor tire, have the tractor supported on jack stands to be able to spin the tires in a lower gear. It takes at least 3 straps.
Rotate it for about 1 hr each direction. The glass will scrub it clean.
Rinse with water, let it dry and coat the inside with a epoxy tank sealer. Cost for sealer on ebay about 50 delivered.0 -
Tom- great way to clean the tank!
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Tom...Wow...Now I am sourcing a tractor (have two friends who have them) and am thinking an autoglass place would be a good place to source broken glass (I'm brilliant... I know. lol) but this sounds like a great method to get everything clean without someone cutting it open and doing goodness knows what. Also auto glass is a seems like a good medium choice because it is hard, but small enough to fit under the baffle. This will definitely be a fall/winter project... but will keep you all updated what we do!- Ray0
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Buy your own tractor - they're fun and easy to work on.
As for the glass, seems like buying it pre-broken would take away half of the fun.
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I strapped mine to a cement mixer.0
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This discussion has been closed.
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